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Areas in Farmington Canyon

Butt Crack Buttress 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 5,353 ft
GPS: 41.003, -111.874 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,842 total · 41/month
Shared By: oliver on Oct 18, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

This is the Canyon Right above Farmington. Most of the rock is pretty unstable and rotten, however, there are a few great climbs and a couple of spots that are being developed.

Getting There

Take I15 to farmington and follow main street to Farmington Pond/Canyon.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Farmington Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
Stinky Knuckles
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stinky Knuckles Butt Crack Buttress
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
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Photos

GPS at 41N 11.5245W for the entrance to the canyon. (according to Google Earth) Mar 18, 2013
Whoever has been bolting in this canyon, would you please email me (nmaxhansen@gmail.com). I do not want to impede on "staked territory" but am interested in a piece of rock and would like to talk before I proceed. Jun 18, 2014
I have been bolting and free soloing this canyon since 2000, though I started [originally] with rebar (on what's apparently called butt crack buttress) as my resources were limited as a teen, and my climbing wasn't supported by my parents, I was lucky enough to have rope...rebar was the easiest thing for me to get. I have tried using as few permanent anchors as possible, though that wasn't feasible in all cases.

I love this canyon and all it has to offer. Farmington canyon will always be one of the most important parts of my history. May 24, 2016
Penny L
Farmington, UT
Penny L   Farmington, UT
Wear your climbing pants for this rock, it can cut you up a little. Two guys climbing it as we came up both left blood on the rocks, and my partner did too. I always wear pants, so I left unscathed, except for a scraped up knuckle. Jul 25, 2016
Just headed up to go climb some of the routes, got to the mouth of the canyon and the road was blocked off due to construction. Talked to the guy blocking it off and said that they were going to be doing work up there until May 29, 2018. Just be aware that it could be blocked off if you head up there before the end of May. Apr 26, 2018

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