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Areas in Calanques de Marseille

Calanque d'En-Vau 0 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Calanque de Morgiou 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Calanque de Sormiou 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Calanque de Sugiton 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Calanque de l'Eissadon 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 315 ft
GPS: 43.225, 5.416 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Pascal Ripoche on Oct 15, 2010
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

Les Calanques is one of those places that is difficult to grasp via words. This area offers picture-perfect bullet-proof sun-lit white limestone above the crystal blue waters of the French Mediterranean. Set between Cassis and Marseille, this 12-mile cliff band (with over 3000 routes) shoots shiny white buttresses through various inlets that offer a fantastic, albeit surreal, climbing adventure. The area is open all year round with some restriction during the summer (protected area and fire hazard) which may be really hot. Both remote and short approach wall exist. The routes are mostly sport (2440 single and multi-pitch routes) with few trad (996 routes) and some deep water solo. This place is wild. Known for it's long and committing traverses right above the vast sea, the calanques necessitate technical footwork and a calm mind, plus some route-finding skills on the longer routes. As with most climbing areas in France, Les Calanques has a rich history that includes names like Gaston Rebuffat and Georges Livanos. The area was a playground for these motivated alpinists as they put up numerous classic lines throughout the 1940's! When the wave of sport-climbing arrived in the 80's, Les Calanques became a premier European climbing destination. Today, there are threats to climbing in the area. Stewert Green wrote about the current issues in his blog

If you have ever climbed there or plan on visiting, or just want to help out with the cause, check out his blog and see how you can get involved in keeping one of the most unique and pristine areas in the world open to climbing.
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Getting There

The set of mountain is just South-East from Marseille.

Each area has a different road that accesses the cliffs. The best option here is to get a good map, and follow the signs down the steep roads to the port. The guidebook "Escalade Les Calanques" has a great map and is sold in Marseille and Cassis...though it written in French.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Calanques de Marseille

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I am planning on traveling to the Calanques soon and was very interested by the deepwater solo opportunities. So far, it seems that many such sites require a small kayak or dingy, does anyone have suggestions for places that do not require this or on locations to rent a small boat?

Thanks May 7, 2013

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