Bird's Eye and Sporty Area Rock Climbing
GPS: |
44.0447, -71.3618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 7,434 total · 47/month |
Shared By: | M Sprague on Oct 13, 2010 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
To the left, past the RGC area, is a section of cliff notable for the many large corners and aretes, named after the 3 pitch 11c Sporty Owl that climbs up the middle of it. This section reminds me of pictures of Patagonia and its sharp spires. Contrary to it's name, most of the current routes here are well protected with traditional gear and a scattering of bolts. Routes are up to 3 pitches long and wander through wild, featured terrain.
When you come to Butolicious a 12a/b bolted 30 m arete, to it's right, at mid height, is a big corner with hanging blocks in the middle of it. Above is a huge slot with the striking looking "Texas Flake" making up the right side. This is the landmark bounding the right of the sector and the left is the sharp, half height, bolted fin of Talon 12a.
Just past Talon, is a tall, steep arete with many cracks in it, the start of where the Bird's Eye Wall heads up the hill. Unfortunately, a lot of the rock is crumbly here, but with work it should offer up some worthy lines. The only currently completed one is the bolted namesake route Bird's Eye View that looks out over Sawyer Pond. The shorter wall up and to the left has one line, a surprisingly pumpy traditionally protected 5.10 The Incubator and possibilities for more.
Getting There
The Lady of the Lake
Great crack climbing with a wild exposed finish.
P. 1 5.9? The original first pitch followed the corner just left of the Butolicious arete (kind of funky gear), or alternatively moved left to the big flake and up to the same anchor on the right side of the nice ledge (better gear and more fun)
The better alternative I think it to do The Nameless Corner 10a https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107788951/nameles-corner to the left (there is a crappy bolted line I did in between), that brings you up to the same ledge.
P. 2 The money pitch! From the anchor on the right side of the ledge head straight up the crack that starts wide (a bolt or 2), narrowing to thin fingers. Pull into a stance and depump for the wild finish up left to an exposed anchor above the overhangs. Lower back to the ledge and rap from there
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