|GPS:||39.769, -75.558 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||21,521 total · 176/month|
|Shared By:||Justin Johnsen on Oct 13, 2010 · Updates|
The Alapocas crag is a former quarry, south-facing and sunny. There are fine views from the top of the park, river, and a derelict 19th century textile mill. Use is light compared to many crags in major city parks. Rock is Wilmington Blue Rock, a gneiss; its quality is just okay.
The established routes have a pair of eyebolts for setting toprope anchors, and there are a couple of short sport routes. Development of new routes is ongoing.
Park rock climbing page: destateparks.com/activities…
FYI I've only written up routes I remember. Feel free to add your own route write ups of the ones I haven't done!
Once permitted, you should drive to the parking lot at the end of Bancroft Mill Road, across the Brandywine River from the park.
this advice for parking is out of date. There is no more parking access across the river. You have to either park at the ball fields by the dupont experimental station or further down under the 95 bridge in town. Do Not park next to the maintenance yard access drive near the top of the cliff.
From the lot, walk across the pedestrian bridge across the river. On the park side of the bridge, turn right and follow the paved trail past a couple of prohibited cliffs on your left, and past a waterfall on your right. Past the waterfall, you'll see the rock climbing sign and the open cliff to your left , with a large lawn and picnic tables in front of it.
Far left ground level:
Hungry for Me 5.5 TR
Middle ground level:
(under Dichotomy) ~5.3 to 5.6
(under Old School) ~5.6 or 5.7
Junior Slab (or Very Sticky Babysteps Up From Pullin' Plastic) 5.3 TR
Dichotomy 5.8 TR
Dichotomy Corner 5.6 TR
Bend Over and Take It TR
Scar Face (or Self Domination) 5.9 TR
Old School 5.7 TR
Old Grandmom 5.2 TR
Old Granddad (or Bob's Slab) 5.2 TR
Right middle ledge:
Chipper ~5.10? TR
Spanky ~5.10? TR
Right ground level:
"Warm up traverse" V0+?
Arena Arete 5.9 TR / V0
Rambo 5.12a TR or sport
Grey Streak 5.10b TR or sport / V0+
Temptation ~5.10? TR
Chossy's Corner 5.6 TR
These routes are from Michael Hartman's excellent guide, available free online from mhartman.net/climbing/ . To quote Michael: "Area names, route names, and grades have been preserved when known. Names and grades have been made up when not known. Let me know if you are aware of different area names, route names, or grades."
Classic Climbing Routes at Alapocas Run State Park
Days w Precip