All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed.
Description
One of the best summer crags in the SE before 2PM when it comes into the sun. The cliff doesn't get any sun in winter. Most of the routes here go through a low roof then up excellent slightly less than vertical granite for the rest of the ride. The cliff receives an oddly low amount of traffic for a cliff this good which is probably due to a combination of the difficulty of the routes (5.11+ and up) and the long approach (almost as long as laurel knob's).
Getting There
Either hike below the south face of the courthouse or hike to the east end of the catwalk ledge. In either case, Hike up to the ridgeline east of the devil's courthouse and follow the trail as it winds its way through huckleberry bushes then down a short slab, then follow the trail as it jogs a little left then a little right near a boulder and then down the obvious to follow steep section of the trail through rhodos to the base of the cliff.
[Hide Comment] Definitely the place to be in the summer. I remember being there one day when it was 75 at the base of the wall and 98 in Atlanta. A lot of sterling routes missing: Krystal Kreme, Deep Woods, North Face Direct (best face climb in Cashiers), Courthouse Arch (first route on face), Subtle Rush. Maybe if I get the time...
Jul 7, 2020
Keene, NY