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Routes in Mossy Rock

Dirty Dancin 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V0 4 R
Dreamweaver TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V0+ 4+ R
Fancy Free TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V3 6A R
Footloose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V1 5 R
Highlight of Twilight 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
Humpty Dumpty 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
Monkey See Monkey Do 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V0 4
Mossy Monster 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0- 4-
Mossy Rock Traverse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B PG13
No Brain No Pain 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A PG13
Pillar of Doom 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
Relativity 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
Squeal if You Peel TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V1 5 R
Tears of the Lorax 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0- 4- PG13
Wing It or Ding It 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b V0 4 PG13
Elevation: 1,775 ft
GPS: 38.577, -122.422 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,073 total, 24/month
Shared By: Floyd Hayes on Sep 27, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Boulder with climbs 12-20 feet high located on property owned by Pacific Union College, currently accessible to the public. Located within forest, thus shady throughout the day. Mosquitoes are bad during spring and early summer. Although most climbs are usually bouldered, all can be top-roped from tree anchors in combination with rusty bolt anchors for a directional (double bolts with a chain above main south face, single hangerless bolts on each end). Names of climbs are given as a convenience for the climbing community, but if anybody knows of earlier names (or objects to new names coined for old problems), I would happily rename (or delete) them.

Getting There

From the junction of Silverado Trail and Deer Park Road in St. Helena, drive 5.4 miles north on Deer Park Road, which eventually becomes Howell Mountain Road, to the campus of Pacific Union College. Turn right on Cold Springs Road and, after 0.2 mile, continue straight across an intersection onto Las Posadas Road (Cold Springs Road turns right) for another 0.9 mile to a 90-degree bend in the road. Park at the bend of the road and hike on the trail that proceeds east (the same direction you were just driving). After about 0.1 mile you cross a fence and a dirt road. Continue straight across the road for another 0.1 to a fork in the trail. Stay right at the fork and continue about 0.4 mile until you see Mossy Rock on the left.

15 Total Climbs

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Peter P, I'm glad you enjoyed bouldering at Mossy Rock but sorry you got lost during the approach. I have reworded the directions to indicate that you must cross the dirt road. I live nearby and I'm certain the forest owned by the college and the adjacent forest owned by the state of California are open to the public. The signs are a warning for those who want to use the property for illicit purposes. Jun 22, 2017
Peter P  
Great bolder close to wine country! As it gets late, there will definitely be mosquitos. Getting there, I thought the intersection after the fence was the "fork" and turned right and got very lost. Woops. Go straight over the dirt road until you hit a true fork. Keep going and you'll cross through a dry creek bed.

Also, there was the following sign at the trailhead, but there were also lots of families going through it to go hiking, so not so sure...







There were lots of cobwebs covering good holds, I considered that nature's way of taking holds off.




The south(?) bolt had no hangar.



The other anchor was solid:

Jun 13, 2017

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