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Routes in Squaw Peak

Squawstruck S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

Squaw Peak (aka Squaw Mountain) is the massive chunk of limestone that makes up the north side of Rock Canyon. The peak rises up almost 3000 feet above the mouth of the canyon.

You can hike to the top of the mountain via the Squaw Peak trail (~4.2 miles; hike up the canyon a couple miles until the trail forks and you see "Squaw Peak Trail" written on a boulder. Turn left there and follow it to the summit) or you can climb your way up nearly 2000 feet of remarkably good limestone.

Getting There

Getting to the base of the rock takes between 35 minutes and an hour depending on how fast you're going and how familiar you are with the approach. See the route description for more information.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Squaw Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I climbed this route Yesterday with John Culberson. We needed half hour for the approach, seven hours to climb the route and an hour to descend the trail from the top. It is an excellent route and it is very well bolted. They did a very nice job creating the route and bolting it. It is a fantastic alpine outing on good rock, and very safe too given the great bolting job. I wouldn't do it in the summer given the southern exposure. The bolt that protects one of the crux moves on pitch 15 (the second roof) is missing the ear, interestingly. So that section gets a little spicy and you could take a long fall if not careful; but honestly, the route is so well bolted that by the time you get there you have grown used to expect a bolt at every turn. So no reason to complaint. Super fun route! Nov 10, 2014

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