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Routes in Deception Boulder

Deception V5+ 6C+
One Move Wonder V3 6A
Elevation: 366 ft
GPS: 41.506, -71.77 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,077 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.
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Description

A huge boulder with a striking prow. Directly on a high traffic hiking trail leading into a nature preserve, so please clean off chalk and do not disturb plant life. Best not visited on weekends.

Getting There

From the Parking area for Long and Ell pond, off Canonchet road, take the right hand yellow dot trail west along a ridge above Long pond on DEM land. It is about 5 minutes in, right on the trail. Just beyond the boulder becomes Audubon/Nature Conservancy land so do not climb beyond this point, be quiet, Get your pads out of the way if walkers are coming and leave the boulder brushed clean of chalk. A bit of water will help with this.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deception Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5+ 6C+
Deception
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deception V5+ 6C+ Boulder
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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Carefully zooming in and comparing the tax map from the Town of Hopkinton(lot 19 is Audubon, lot 21 is DEM) to this map from the DEM (use imagery base map and zoom in) showing the boulder, I think it is pretty clear the boulder is on DEM land. Use a north south line through the boulder to features on the other side of the pond to compare. I am guessing the Audubon ranger may have used a phone navigational map (notoriously inaccurate for boundaries) while putting the sign up. Apr 8, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Damn Germans and their highway associations! Dec 23, 2014
It has come to my attention that the deception boulder is now heavily posted by the autobahn society no rock climbing. i have had numerous conversations with the ranger over the years who had always stated this boulder was in dem land, and therefore legal. if one looks at the property demarcation on a map, it looks like the boulder itself is where they drew the line. probably need to hold off going there until we get access worked out. Dec 23, 2014
Prob v7, 8, or 9ish. Jun 9, 2014
Joe M.    
Dana, how hard is that? I tried it way back when, and remember that it seemed like a really good problem... Jun 9, 2014
I watched Matt Wilder do it, but Marc, Mike or Shylo may have done it sooner. I think the Landman brothers also did it. May 27, 2014
Any idea who or when? May 26, 2014
Yes this has been done. Un named. May 26, 2014
Has anybody tried the hard looking line that goes up the left arĂȘte on opposite side of deception boulder?
May 26, 2014
I have spoken with the ranger for the Audubon who patrols regularly, and he confirmed that this boulder is in fact on DEM land and legal. However, it is in such a high visibility area climbers should continue to maintain a low impact presence. Jan 8, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Good catch, Joe. I dug around for more detailed maps and found an Audubon map which shows a narrow strip of DEM land running down the trail to what looks like just after the boulder. There is also more DEM land to the west. I did find one boulder out that way sitting on top of a ridge, but it was out in the middle of nowhere and I doubt I could refind it any time soon. Dec 16, 2011
Joe M.    
Mark, I actually think the audobon land starts after the deception boulder. I might be wrong as I have only been there twice, but I seem to remember the signs being after the boulder on the trail? Dec 16, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The biggest piece of rock in this area is on the peninsula on the north west side of Long Pond, but the cliffs with Ward and Chris's routes are more to the south west from there, just in front of where the word "Audubon" starts on the map. They are fun to at least look at if you like to explore around. There is a wide crack back there that is like the one over in Yawgoog, i.e., similar size and hand shredding crystals inside. Hiking boots fit well in it and made it bearable. It is a wonderful area and I am glad it is preserved, even if we can't climb there. Dec 15, 2011
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
There are some classic climbing routes on the Audubon land that Ward Smith put up years ago. They are on the bigger cliffs off the trail across the pond. The bolt and piton are probably still there. Unfortunatly you can no longer climb there. The bird watchers don't want any scruffy climbers scaring the birds. :-) Dec 15, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Dana, unfortunately, it seems pretty clear this is on Audubon/Nature Conservancy land and they are very hostile to climbing. See the map mdc.net/~dbrier/yawgoog/tra… if you are going to try to climb here, know you are going guerrilla and leave no trace. It is right on the trail though and the area is patroled. I used to sneak in and solo on some of the cliffs, figuring I could run faster then them, but I have heard of them confiscating people's gear.

Edit- closer inspection shows this as probably ok, but still be discrete and low impact to not ruffle feathers. Dec 15, 2011

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