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Shanty Cliff

New York > Adirondacks > G: Indian Lake Region

Description

Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.

Getting There

Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.

Path reaches Shanty Slab in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach Shanty Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up the drainage along the cliff's base to the remainder of Main Cliff:

* Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes
* Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock
* Third class ramp
* Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)
* Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)
* Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above

Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.

Quality Climbing!

Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.

Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shanty Cliff
[Hide Photo] Shanty Cliff
Jamie McNeill on Rocinha (5.10c).  Photo by Jay Harrison.
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill on Rocinha (5.10c). Photo by Jay Harrison.
Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way to Shanty Cliff.
[Hide Photo] Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way to Shanty Cliff.
5.8 hand crack
[Hide Photo] 5.8 hand crack
climbing Hooverville
[Hide Photo] climbing Hooverville
Spring river crossing.
[Hide Photo] Spring river crossing.
Shanty Cliffs from above the road.
[Hide Photo] Shanty Cliffs from above the road.
Base of Soweto (left) and little gem diner (right).   In the book this is called the cone shaped base
[Hide Photo] Base of Soweto (left) and little gem diner (right). In the book this is called the cone shaped base
Bolted 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Bolted 5.10a

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] The base of the main climbing walls in the middle (two 100 foot walls that nearly face each other) is heavily eroded. I find heading to the left wall, then traversing up and right to access the right hand wall is the best approach. In the future some work will be done to shore up the base of those walls to halt the erosion taking place. Mar 22, 2012
Bill Sacks
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Well developed area. Flat areas to belay from, nice pathways, and plenty of bolted anchors.

nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/0… Apr 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Has anyone climbed the fingers-to-hands jamcrack through the big overhang that is basically a direct start to Circuitous Shit? Oct 29, 2012
Tim O
Somewhere
[Hide Comment] Visited 9/6/15 and 9/7/15. Started up Hard Times and much to my disappointment the second to last (and possibly last as well) bolt hanger before the anchors was missing. The bolt stud was still in the rock, but no hanger. Sep 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] I put a new hanger and nut on the last bolt of Hard Times today. The rest of them looked OK. Jul 30, 2016
Scott H
Southern ADK
[Hide Comment] I have not been able to locate the 'delightful knob' with the two short (5.6 I think) routes mentioned in the guidebook. Any thoughts? May 31, 2020
Kevin Miller
Saratoga Springs, NY
[Hide Comment] Great location with a large variety of bolted routes. Perfect cliff for transitioning from sport to trad as there are a lot of mid level sport routes with ample opportunity for practicing gear placements in between bolts. It's amazing that I've never seen more than a handful of other climbers even on beautiful weekend days! Oct 17, 2020