PRINT: Rock Climbing in The Prow Wall, Squamish

The Prow Wall

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

The highest west facing wall in the South Gully. Easily viewed from the Squamish Buttress. Recognizable by the major prow like corner capped by a jutting roof, a popular launch point for base jumpers. The first ascent was in 1968, details and route description sketchy.

One of the cleanest, most aesthetic formations on the Chief.

Getting There

Approach via the Apron to Kashmir Wall. From Kasmir walk ten minutes up the South Gulley. First pitch not obvious until your underneath it. This pitch deposits you on ledge underneath Teddy Bears Picnic and Gravity Bong.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Cotton Mouth Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 2 ● Fingerbang Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 3 ● Gravity Bong Trad
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 1 ● The power of yesterday Trad 4 pitches
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 1 ● The Prow Wall Trad 8 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 5 ● Teddy Bear's Picnic Trad 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● UnBearable Trad 6 pitches

● Cotton Mouth

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Fingerbang

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad

● Gravity Bong

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad

● The power of yesterday

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad 4 pitches

● The Prow Wall

5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Trad 8 pitches

● Teddy Bear's Picnic

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 6 pitches

● UnBearable

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 6 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The summit of The Prow Wall photo by Jeff Lewis

Looking up South Gulley from the Buttress trail.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christopher Barlow

I climbed on the Prow Wall three times recently. For what it's worth, I thought the approach from the top of the Apron, up South Gully, to the bottom of the Prow Wall was pretty rough: slimy, loose, mosquito-infested, and steep. Then, the flared right-facing corner access pitch was wet, like running with water. It was still climbable but more stressful than 10+ ought to be. That said, it's kind of a fun, novel challenge to climb the water and grime.

Likewise, hiking to the top of the Prow Wall via the 2nd Peak Trail is steep but straightforward. Going at a fairly mild pace, it took us an hour to get up there - a good bit less than climbing Rock On and scrambling South Gully. Furthermore, rapping a given route allows you to stash water and other gear at ledges (no hauling necessary!) and is super straightforward due to numerous bolted anchors and steep, clean pulls. The only drawback is that you may need two ropes, but I'm pretty sure a 70m will work to rap Teddy Bear's with some minor shenanigans to clip directionals on the steep pitches. Rapping Teddy Bear's lands you on the tree ledge above the access pitch; then you can decide for yourself if you must go all the way down. Aug 26, 2014