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Elevation: 1,075 ft
GPS: 39.609, -79.8848
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,925 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ray Weber on Aug 28, 2010
Admins: Pat Goodman, Dylan Griffith, Ray Weber
Warning Access Issue: Private property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area has always had sensitive access issues so tread very lightly!!!

Pioneer rocks is a quiet place just outside Morgantown near Deckers Creek. It is a small area of sandstone faces best suited for top roping. Locals know about this area, mainly because it is close to town and an easy jaunt if you must get in a climb but don't have time to drive to Cooper's Rock. I rarely run into other people there!

The main area consists of a few moderately difficult routes with small fingerholes and rounded edgy foot holds. A nice dihedral and chimney grace the right end of the main face. Finding a good anchor to allow you to hit a few different lines is the biggest challenge. You'll need a few long lengths of webbing (I take a 40' and 50'). I'm sure someone has come up with catchy climby names for these routes, but since I'm still searching for anything in print about this area, I won't venture to rename any of them. I would estimate difficulty in the range of 5.5 for the most easily anchored spot (you'll know it when you get to the top) and around 5.9 to 5.10 for the left face of the dihedral. Any additional information would be great.

Getting There Suggest change

Take highway 7 out of Morgantown, through Sabraton. You'll go under I-68 and after about 3 miles you'll pass Tyrone Road on your left and a small store called (I believe) Pioneer Market. Just past the market on your right is a small pull-off. Park here. Now walk further on down the road about 100 yards and the cliffs are on your left. Beware, there are a lot of thorny bushes between you and the rock, pants aren't a bad idea. The approach to the top is easy to find beginning at the left end of the face.

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