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La Esfinge

International > S America > Peru > Cordillera Blanca > Quebrada Paron

Description

La Esfinge (The Sphinx) is a 2000ft granite formation high on the northern side of the beautiful Quebrada Paron (Paron Valley). This is by far the most popular rock climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. The original 1985 route is by far the most popular route however there are many other quality routes on the formation.

Like most big walls there is a variance of rock qualities however in general la Esfinge is known for its quality granite climbing.

Most climbers attempt routes in the winter (north american summer) dry season. Since it's location is close to the equator the days do not vary much but the summer brings more precipitation in from the Amazon basin during the rainy season.

Getting There

Most climbers begin expeditions in Huaraz where ample supplies and climbing goods can be purchased. From there it is possible to either take collectivos and/or taxis into the Paron valley.

From the Paron lake you begin walking back down the road toward town for a 100 yards or so. A faint climber's trail will head off right (north) over a water drainage ditch. There are several paths that weave their way up through the pampas grass. The burros cannot travel up these trails but porters are available for hire in the valley.

A 2-3 hour hike will get you to basecamp just as the formation comes into view. The basecamp is a nice large flat area with water available about 50m away. From there the base of the wall is a relatively flat 45 minute hike through a boulder field.

: (1-2 hours)
Walk down the ridge from the summit to a low spot in the ridge marked by white quartz cairns. 3-5 rappels. It appears there are rappel stations for single rope raps however some of these are very poor bolts and slings. Double rope raps would probably be recommended. Below the raps make your way to skiers left to access a loose talus slope.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Cruz del Sur
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 19
The Original Route
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cruz del Sur
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
The Original Route
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 15 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

60 sec exposure from La Esfinge basecamp. The Huandoys on the skyline.
[Hide Photo] 60 sec exposure from La Esfinge basecamp. The Huandoys on the skyline.
Porter below La Esfinge
[Hide Photo] Porter below La Esfinge
Descent requires from 3-5 rappels from low point on ridge marked by white cairns, traversing the slabs to the talus and then a good bit of skidding, cursing, and shoe-emptying to return to the base of the wall.
[Hide Photo] Descent requires from 3-5 rappels from low point on ridge marked by white cairns, traversing the slabs to the talus and then a good bit of skidding, cursing, and shoe-emptying to return to the base…
La Esfinge from Basecamp
[Hide Photo] La Esfinge from Basecamp