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Routes in Power Lines

3 In One T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers to hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ringlock crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steep Flake T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Elevation: 4,551 ft
GPS: 44.044, -121.467 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,719 total · 58/month
Shared By: Matt Trager on Aug 23, 2010 with updates from patrick donahue
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

A small but worthwhile climbing area to check out, situated near Tumalo creek, it sits under power lines and is fairly secluded. Most of the routes have bolted anchors at the top and can either be top-roped or led with trad gear. There is a walk around to get to the top.

Power Lines boast some awesome crack climbing that is all relatively protected with a double rack.  There are a couple mixed routes out here, as well as one retro bolted route that goes at ~5.9+or 5.10. all the other cracks range from 5.8-5.11ish. This is a great place for an after work session. If you are looking for some sport climbing, head over to Tick Ranch for short powerful sport routes similar to the Northern Point routes out at Smith

Getting There

Located about 15 minutes from Bend, drive out Skyliners rd, take a right onto FR 4606, and a left onto FR4609/Jack pine spring rd. There will be a small pullout on the left-hand side. Walk downhill towards the water from here and you will find the cliffs.

Option 2: Drive west out of Bend on Skyliners Rd, from the last roundabout drive 6.1 miles to a dirt road on the right (turns into a private drive). You can park immediately on either shoulder of this road or drive about 100 yards to then turn onto FR4606-09. From the parking spots, walk north on the dirt road and turn right (east) on FR4606-09 (unmarked). From here walk a short distance on the dirt road until you see the power lines and there will be a faint climbers trail marked with cairns on the left. From here, it is about 5-10 minute walk to the crag. You will wind down to Tumalo Creek and cross at the rocky beach just upstream of the crag. The trail is well marked and makes for less bushwhacking to the crag.

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
This area is totally separate from the Tick Ranch. It is a few miles down the dirt roads. Tick ranch is just off FS 4606 (at the bridge) while the powerlines are off of FS 4609. Oct 30, 2012
PDub-Trad
Corvallis, Oregon
PDub-Trad   Corvallis, Oregon
I apologize CritConrad. I stand corrected. Being that the two bouldering areas, and Shevlin Park are in the same general vicinity I was under the impression that more folks know the area as "Tick Ranch", being the more "historic" name going all the way back to the 90's and all. Its what came to mind for me when I first saw "power lines" posted here.

Having the 4606 vs 4609 clarification will probably help those finding power lines versus "tick ranch". Nov 8, 2012
John Collins
Bend Or
John Collins   Bend Or
the historic route is called"spellbinder". It is located above the bridge. Park at the bridge and walk up the switchbacks. This place is now called "The Super Unknown ". Lots of bouldery and short 5.ll and .12 routes with just enough bolts to keep you safe. Spellbinder starts next to the trail head sign.It starts with a fixed pin and goes up the right facing corner which is left of a bolt line. It leaves the corner and goes out a killer hand crack to the left. Anchors in this area are bolts but not always set up with rap rings or chains. I though Ed Barry did the FA.Road is closed from Dec.1st to April 1st. Dec 5, 2014
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
Once again, I'll reiterate what Crit said... Tick Ranch is the area by the bridge which includes chossy overhung sport, Powerlines has no bridge and is several miles upstream from Tick. It is Andesite column climbing, nice cracks and compression aretes similar to the lower gorge at Smith. Most routes are in the 5.9-5.11 range here, there are no bolts except as TR anchors, protection is traditional only.

Please see the TICK RANCH entry I created to differentiate between the two areas. Also, viewing the map feature on here has the crags marked at the correct locations. Oct 13, 2015
Rod J.
Bend, OR
Rod J.   Bend, OR
I can't seem to find a Tick Ranch entry. Will someone post a link to it?

Also, where can I find a route guide to the climbs at the Power Lines? Apr 7, 2016
I also would love to see a topo for power lines, interested to know how hard other people think the routes are Apr 21, 2016
Note on the approach info: once you turn onto Jack Pine Spring road you have to drive a considerable distance (several miles, if I remember correctly) before you reach the parking for power lines. Use the GPS coordinates provided to help you find it. I think you can see the power lines from the road, but I'm not sure.

Also if anyone is interested, it is also possible to approach from the opposite side of the creek. There is a nice spot to wade across 100 yard upstream from the crag. This cuts off a lot of driving time, as you are on skyliners road the whole way instead of the winding dirt forest service roads.

According to my phone, the coordinates:

for the spot to park/stash your bike on the skyliners side of the creek are 44.042182, -121.47037.

The creek crossing is at 44.043007, -121.46914

and the crag is at 44.043086, -121.46741

Have fun May 26, 2016
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
I put up an entry for Tick Ranch but apparently people didn't like that and it got taken down.

As for a topo of Powerlines, its too small and irrelevant to have a guide or a topo. I know people have TR'd the aretes but I've just done the 3 main cracks out on the end there; what I think of as the off-width, the hand crack, and the ring-lock crack with the mantle start. Of course they are significantly more varied than those descriptions give them credit for but that's what characterizes them in my mind. I think the OW is 5.9, the hand crack is 10- and the ring-lock crack (around the corner from the other two) is 10+. At least that seems consistent with the lower gorge at Smith to me. Jun 13, 2016
I reccomend we drop this page and start from scratch if the goal is to make this place accessible to folks. If not then just keep it off MP Jul 26, 2016
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
The directions listed and the placement on the map are both 100% accurate. There is nothing inaccessible about this area. Aug 8, 2016
Dr Strangelove
Bend, OR
Dr Strangelove   Bend, OR
Reccomend the creek crossing if you dont have a high clearance vehicle. There is a faint trail leading down. At the creek you can either precariously crawl across a downed tree, or ford at a shallow spot downstream, thigh deep last time I crossed. Jun 29, 2018
miles b  
It looks like there has been some recent development at this crag over the summer. The L most arete is now bolted for a sport lead. Sep 3, 2018

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