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Routes in Sully's Hangout

3M S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Bunch of B.S. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Party S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner's Luck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beginner, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Constant Gardener S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dynamic Duo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
French Connection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Bent S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hindu Two Routes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hindu Two Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In The Bubble S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leftovers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lefty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little LuLu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moss Pit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My One Muscle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rookie, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serene S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shake Your Lettuce S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special K S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Dial 8 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trekking to India S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wingman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Your Other Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Not an LSCR sanctioned climbing area Details

Description

Located on a heavily forested mountainside, Sully’s does not really receive any direct, open sunlight. It is shady and cool—a better place than most to climb on a sweltering sunny afternoon. Also, because it faces west, Sully’s benefits in the late afternoon and early evening from about as much sunlight as can be expected

Sully’s can be very slow to dry out after a rain, especially in the spring and fall.

It is a good place to go after work but the size of the crag and proximity to Vancouver can leave it crowded.

Sport climbing—all bolted—at a variety of grades. There are some excellent moderates, but the crag tends to feature difficult and bold sport routes that are very challenging for the average weekend warrior. Whatever the grade, the climbing is always interesting. In places, the rock is highly featured and varies from slab to overhanging with fractures, cracks, and even roofs thrown in for good measure. There is about 25 routed in total.

A topo can be downloaded here
squamishclimbing.com/topos/…
also you can find the topo on the quickdraw publications website.

Not on the topo: 2 additional 5.9s on the North area, beside "lefty" and a 5.7 as well.

A lot of the routes have the name and grade written on the rock in Black marker(insert ethical discussion here), some of the grades on the rock are different than the topo.

This description has been compiled from the topo and Squamishclimbing.com as well as my own observations..

Getting There

Sully's Hangout is located on the steep west side of Lynn Peak's long southern shoulder, within the boundaries of the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve (a.k.a. the "Demonstration Forest"). Although access is available through the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park, the most reliable access point is the LSCR. From highway #1 northbound take exit 22a and follow Lillooet Road north past Capilano College all the way to the main LSCR parking lot.

Parking: An alternative (although not recommended) option is to use the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park parking area. The roads leading to both parking areas are gated. These gates are closed in the evening at times which are clearly posted. Plan your visit around it, and don’t be late—especially on the Headwaters side. Search and Rescue is notified if vehicles are still inside the gates after the gates are shut.

Approach from LSCR main parking lot by the Water treatment plant:
Take the Lynn Headwaters Connector Trail north, passing the Rice Lake area at about 400-500m, until you reach the Lynn Loop Trail turnoff on the right. Follow the Lynn Loop Trail steeply upwards for about 5-10 min. Just a few steps before you reach the junction with the Lynn Peak trail(you can see the Lynn Peak Sign), look for a small cairn on the right. Step over and find a rough trail leading up the slope. Follow it and shortly the crag will loom above you 5-10 min from the loop trail.

Total approach time 20-40 min depending on how fast you want to go.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sully's Hangout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Lubo
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Speed Dial 8
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
My One Muscle
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Wingman
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Constant Gardener
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Back Door Party
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lubo
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Speed Dial 8
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
My One Muscle
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wingman
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Constant Gardener
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Back Door Party
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sully's Hangout »

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Photos

Shaun and crew have created a very nice crag here.

Its proximity to town and genuinely good routes makes it inevitable that it is often quite busy. I urge everyone to realize that this place must be treated carefully to keep preserve access. It's nothing we don't all want everywhere, really: no litter, low noise and visual impact, one distinct trail without other forest trampling, and use of the facilities at the parking lot... Aug 3, 2011

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