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Areas in Farside

(1) The Arena of Pleasure 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(2) Dropzone Area 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(3) Hummingbird Wall and Hummingbird Terrace 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(4) Maple Tree Cluster 13 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
(5) Fir Tree Ledge 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(6) Main Cliff 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(7) The Bare Buttress 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
(8) Indian Head 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(9) East End Formation 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 724 ft
GPS: 45.569, -122.206 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 26,258 total, 295/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

Description compliments of Bill Coe.

Discovered about the same time by the untiring explorer Jim Opdycke and located less than a 1/2 mile East down the SR14 road from Ozone. There is anecdotal evidence that some locals had climbed some here in the 70's, although that has been lost to history except for when they showed up and told some climbers this and that this was formerly private land.

One thing which differentiates and makes Farside unique and different from The Ozone is the restraint of bolts. Although there are a few bolted routes here and there, it could have been possible to put in a bolted route every few feet. Yet it was desired that this area remain like a more traditional climbing area, where folks could learn and practice with gear. This gives the place a different feel than a bolted area, and it's good spot to develop a "lead head" and learn real technical rock climbing. Please help keep it this way for future climbers and restrict the use of bolts. This place can remain for those who appreciate the deeper and different challenge of natural gear lines, and Ozone for those who seek out bolt clip ups.

The one piece of kit all climbers will benefit from carrying here is a small whisk broom. These can often be had for a buck at the dollar tree stores, so get some extras for your buddies when you're there. If everyone just whisked a bit here and a bit there pretty soon the entire area would be as clean as your kitchen counter....perhaps cleaner.

Getting There

Farside is near mile post 24 on Washington State Highway 14, slightly east of Ozone on the south side of the highway. Park at the large pullout on the south side of the road at the top of the hill just before a right curve in the road (if heading east). Their is also another smaller pullout just west of the larger one. Their is a trail at each end of the area. An East trail starting from the large pullout, which begins at any number of trails that access a trail at the top of the cliff, head east on this trail until it turns and heads down to the base. There is also a west trail, more easily accessed from the smaller pullout, but you can also walk west along a guardrail to access this trail from the larger pullout. This trail switchbacks more gently down between the main cliff and the arena of pleasure.

Routes - West to East

Routes have been sorted both below and in the areas on left.
Both are listed with areas starting on the West side of Farside/Dropzone
Arena of Pleasure This is the area to the right of the main (West) trail.
41 Feet of Pain 5.5
30(1) Feet of Pleasure 5.6
Wet and Dirty (direct start) 5.8
Wet and Dirty 5.7
Kiddy Litter 5.2

Drop Zone This is the first area to the left of the main (West) trail.
Happy Ending 5.10
Child Abuse 5.8
Mark it Eight, Dude 5.8 PG, with the "Smokey" extension (P2) 5.9
Fools Rush In 5.9
Fall From Grace A2
Gas Station Fashion A1
The Far Side 5.6

Hummingbird Wall This is the obvious 2-tiered section of rock.
Dwarf Toss 5.8
Tribal Therapy 5.9
Yashua 5.6
Northern Passage, Lower 5.6
Kinetic Flow 5.8
The Warm Up 5.11
Stewart's Ladder 5.10d

Hummingbird Terrace The second pitch to the hummingbird wall climbs.
Northern Passage, Upper 5.4
Senior Moment 4th class
Well Hung 5.6

Main Cliff (West of Bare Buttress) These climbs begin just to the right of the terrace.
Exchange Student 5.10c
French Intern 5.10a
'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe 5.9
Sweet Fucker 5.10-
Shoulder Hop TR
The Head Wall 5.10-
Step and Fetch It TR
Closeout 5.9
The Martyr 5.8
Good Vibrations 5.10b/c
Boo Coup 5.10- PG
Center Squeeze 5.10b/c
The Darkhorse 5.10a
Tunnel Vision 5.11b
Squeeze Play 5.10c
Naughty and Nice 5.10d
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) 5.10a PG
Day of Atonement 5.10a
Hollow Victory 5.10+
Solid Gold 5.10-
Oracle 5.10c
Wushu Roof 5.10d
The Lonesome Winner 5.10a/b
Freak Freely 5.10b/c
Urbaby's Daddy 5.10a
2Trad4U 5.9
Happy Crack 5.8
Snake Buttress TR
Snake 5.8
White Lightening 5.8

The Bare Buttress This area is marked by the very large Pine with large slabs of fallen rock at it's base.
Bill's Thrill 5.7
The Left Cheek 5.7 PG
Adam's Crack 5.8
The Right Cheek 5.10a PG

Main Cliff (East of Bare Buttress)
Scary as Fuck 5.7
Sweet Surprise 5.7
Sheep Fuckers Delight 5.10
Dulcinea 5.5
Wounded Knee 5.6
Birthday Suprise (65) 5.6
MJ08 5.6
Lizard Locks 5.10b
The Arete 5.11
Introductory Offer 5.9
The Trembling 5.9
The Pin 5.10
Silverdycke 5.7

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Farside

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wounded Knee
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The Left Cheek
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bill's Thrill
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dwarf Toss
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Adam's Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Lightening
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tribal Therapy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
2Trad4U
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boo Coup
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Darkhorse
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Head Wall
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Hollow Victory
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Naughty and Nice
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tunnel Vision
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wounded Knee (8) Indian Head 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Left Cheek (7) The Bare Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bill's Thrill (7) The Bare Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dwarf Toss (2) Dropzone Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Adam's Crack (7) The Bare Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
White Lightening (7) The Bare Buttress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tribal Therapy (2) Dropzone Area 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe (4) Maple Tree Cluster 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
2Trad4U (6) Main Cliff 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Boo Coup (4) Maple Tree Cluster 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Darkhorse (5) Fir Tree Ledge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Head Wall (4) Maple Tree Cluster 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hollow Victory (6) Main Cliff 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad
Naughty and Nice (6) Main Cliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Tunnel Vision (5) Fir Tree Ledge 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Farside »

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Photos

Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
Had a lot of fun here. Everything was really dirty and we didn't have a broom/brush. We thought we were at Ozone so we were a little confused haha. Climbed only two lines because we didn't have trad gear. I tied a little stick to my harness via the prusik knot and used it to clean off all the SPIDER webs. All in all, fun day! Now... to find Ozone... Jul 10, 2015
Chris-Bailey
Olympia, WA
Chris-Bailey   Olympia, WA
I know almost nothing about the development of the area and it's history, but showed up for a day of climbing with my girlfriend. Just wanted to say how great the climbing was given the minimal traffic the area seems to get for others who come to this page. Many of the routes were starting to become a little overgrown, but the quality of the climbing on the main wall made up for it. All of the anchors appeared to be in good condition and the rock quality was mostly excellent.

-Chris Sep 9, 2014
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT.

AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE. Jun 13, 2011
bryans  
Offwhite: It's also known as the dropzone. Dec 29, 2010
Cool, this place really reminds me of the Dropzone, is it nearby? Dec 20, 2010
Billcoe  
Thanks for laying this out there so nice and sharing it with everyone Adam. As noted above, Tim's book will have this in there as well, hopefully some world class topos that Tim's known for too. Tim's site has a list of places people can get his books, bother them to see if copy's are in yet, should be soon. Here's the link to that site:
http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs

If anyone doesn't have Tim's Beacon Rock topo yet, consider buying it before it's gone as it's some amazing work that folks have been buying 2 copies of to frame for the wall as artwork: both front and back. Dec 15, 2010
Kev
Kev  
Richard. Tim Olson is adding the entire area into his volume 4. Should be coming out soon. It will be everything minus the commentary you see above. All that elitist "I own the rock" junk will be gone. Oct 11, 2010
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
On 1-Oct-2010 Dana and I visited this cliff for a ½ day of climbing. We did three routes, Sweet Surprise, Adam’s Crack and Urbaby’s Daddy. Found identifying and finding the routes a bit hard. Please reorder the listing of routes in so it goes west to east or visa-versa OR add a “map”/drawing that identifies the (at least the major) routes.
The routes are short and access to the top of the cliff is easy, making it a great place to learn or teach trad climbing. Oct 6, 2010
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
Under no circumstances should anyone park on the north side of Route 14 in the wide shoulder - this is a very active and officially marked semi slow lane for allowing cars to pass them. Parking there will probably get you towed and more than likely cause access problems. Thanks. Sep 4, 2010
adam winslow
Fort Collins, CO
adam winslow   Fort Collins, CO
Bryan,
With 67 routes, some of which I haven't climbed, of course not everything here is accurate. Feel free to help improve on this sites info with gear notes, pictures, descriptions, etc...

Rafe,
Many of the routes do not have bolted anchors, but utilize the many large trees along the top of the cliff. If you get near the top of a climb and don't see bolts, check the trees for slings and rappel rings. In some cases you may have to 3rd class a short distance to get to them. Sep 2, 2010
bryans  
Also: because these routes are listed alphabetically, not left-to-right or right-to-left, I've added comments after the most visible routes that will hopfully allow people to use those few routes as references for finding the others. Aug 31, 2010
bryans  
Hi Rafe. Yes, almost every route has a bolted anchor. Note: Several of the "original developers" were not contacted by Adam Winslow before he posted this on-line guide, which was largely drafted by Bill Coe. The rest of the original developers have been providing information to Tim Olson, who will be including this crag in his forthcoming guide. But until then, Adam's information is more than enough to help you have a fun day at this crag, even if the ratings and gear sizes are slightly off for a few climbs.

Finally, the introductory statements up above are not representative of all of the "original developers." But most of us do share with Bill the belief that most of the potential lines have been either developed or toproped and therefore should not be bolted. If you feel you would like to bolt a new potential line, please follow the near universal ethic of contacting the original developers - most of whom are listed here - and learning about the history of your proposed line before you drill. It is indeed likely that the proposed route has already been toproped and/or led, even if moss and small trees have now grown back. Anyway, have fun out there!

PS - please feel free to PM me if you have any questions about certain routes or just want general beta. Most of the developers (clearly Bill and Adam and myself) believe this area will benefit from extra traffic as moss grows quickly on the neglected routes. Aug 30, 2010
Rafe  
Do the routes have bolted anchors? Aug 22, 2010

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