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Khartoum

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Powell River

Description

Located in the upper "Lois Valley", just past Khartoum lake. With Mt. Diadem at the head of valley.
"Khartoum" holds several(3) multipitch climbs from 7 to 10 pitches in length. As well as several shorter routes of 1 to 3 pitches.
Rock is good, and very clean, by coastal B.C. standards.
Routes are "moderate" (5.7 to 5.10), and involve extensive crack systems, interspersed with technical face climbing.
The wall faces East, and has afternoon shade in summer months.

Getting There

South of Powell River,Goat lake main(Dixon rd.) to Stillwater main. Follow to Third Lake turn off(right).Follow this road to mile marker 22. Go 400 metres further and turn left to 4wd w/ clearance for 1.2kms. Or 20 min hike to camp. Driving time approx 50 min. from hwy 101.
From camp follow trail to base of wall (15 min.)

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Original Route
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Three the hard way.
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
Empire Strikes Back
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Star Wars
Trad 9 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Gone Postal
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Original Route
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Three the hard way.
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Empire Strikes Back
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Star Wars
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 9 pitches
Gone Postal
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 8 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Khartoum Topo
[Hide Photo] Khartoum Topo
Pitch 2<br>
Gone Postal
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 Gone Postal
P1/2 Star Wars
[Hide Photo] P1/2 Star Wars
Climbers camp.
[Hide Photo] Climbers camp.
Khartoum from mainline.
[Hide Photo] Khartoum from mainline.
J.Tinl @ Khartoum.<br>
Mt. Diadem behind.
[Hide Photo] J.Tinl @ Khartoum. Mt. Diadem behind.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The book says turn left 5.5km after the rec site. There's a steep, new-ish and rough gravel/sand road going up a clear-cut around 5.5km guarded by 2 small boulders, but we ignored that and turned left at about 7km after the rec site. Rotting wood bridges a ditch and an overgrown forest road leads to the climbers camp. The road is rough and became impassable with an old Pathfinder. It's narrow, so you might not be able to turn around. We parked at 700m MSL.
There's a water source at the camp. Jul 28, 2021