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Routes in Looking Glass Rock

Regular Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Description

Beautiful sandstone formation with a huge amphitheater and large window.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Take Highway 191 south of Moab for ~23-25 miles (<1 mile past La Sal Junction). You are looking for a gravel road on your right (west) signed as LOOKING GLASS ROAD (used to be called Hatch Wash road). Turn right and travel west 1.4 miles.
  • Option 1: (May not be passable depending on recent rains) Turn left onto a deep sand 'road' for 0.3 miles. Before a ranch fence, turn right and follow the 'road' to the base of Looking Glass. 10 second approach.
  • Option 2: Continue on the road and take a left just after passing Looking Glass rock. Park at the side of the road.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Attempted Looking Glass on May 3. Saw about seven rattle snakes at the base of the route. One was literally on first step of the route. There is a harder, crumbly, and sketchy unprotected alternative start to the right around the toe. There were also snakes on that side, though.

We opted to leave the snakes alone and headed back to Moab. May 9, 2017
  • * RAPPEL INFO **
You can use a single 70 meter DYNAMIC rope. At first glance the rope will be dangling 3-4 feet off the bottom, however with rope stretch we had about six or more feet to go. A static 70 meter will not work - Neither will a dynamic 60 meter.

Hope this helps and happy rapping.

Oh, and beware of rattle snake - Saw two to the left of the first belay spot.

Cheers. Apr 3, 2016
Hey all,

After I left Moab a few years ago, Isaac Dority, Jarod Yazzie, Alex Pina and I put a small register on the summit of Looking Glass. A few months ago, I heard that it disappeared, which was a real bummer--there were entries in there by people who aren't with us anymore, which isn't something you can really replace. This past weekend, my partner Chris Thai and I added a new register on our way back from the Creek. It's right next to the summit cairn. There's a small notebook and a pen in there to start.

I assume some jack-off took the first one for no reason, but climbers, if I'm wrong and you or someone you know is unhappy about the register, please, call me at 7206758129, and we'll talk it out and see if we can come to a compromise. The old one saw a lot of use and was tastefully out of sight, so it would be a shame to see this one take a walk too.
Oct 5, 2015
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
The road into Looking Glass Rock is now called Looking Glass Road. The former name doesn't show up on Google Maps app. Oct 10, 2014
On 11/1/13 the first dirt road to the start of the "Regular Route" (aka "East Rib") was passable for high clearance 4x4, but not regular cars.

From the top, members of our party saw anchors and bolts on the south rib, the extension directly above the arch, and decided we should give it a try. 1st pitch was low 5th class up a crack system starting on the SE side of the south rib (no bolts), ending at a series of 6 bolted anchors, two with slings and a link for rapping, + one old ring piton, on a flat bench south of the arch. Rib steepened here, steeper and narrower than east rib, with crumbly rock, suspect pro, and long way to first bolt, so we bailed. Single rope rap with 60 m rope takes you to base of west side. Nov 5, 2013
Nathan Tomlin
Boulder, CO
Nathan Tomlin   Boulder, CO
Wow, definitely RATTLE SNAKES live in holes at the base of the climb. Be careful! See comments and picture on the page for the climb. Oct 17, 2013
handyhansen
Vail, CO
handyhansen   Vail, CO
Leave the rappel up and do a swing afterwards! Oct 3, 2013
rr12  
We were there last month. The RATTLE SNAKE warning above is no joke. There were a couple of adults right at the start of the climb and about 10 juveniles all over starting under the rocks where you jump over the fence. Jul 5, 2013
rging
Salt Lake City, Ut
rging   Salt Lake City, Ut
I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway. Apr 19, 2013
awesome thanks! looks like a sweet little outing Nov 8, 2012
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
Easy access even with a low-rider Civic. There's a good gravel road that gets you within 100 feet of the formation. Nov 7, 2012
is it possible to access this with a high clearance 2 wheel drive vehicle? wasnt sure after reading about the "deep sand" Thanks! Nov 6, 2012
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
RATTLE SNAKE ALERT!

We showed up to climb this today and there were approx. 20 rattle snakes lining the small shelf around the base of the route. There was one (about 3 feet long) sitting right in a small hole right at the start of the route that would easily strike the hand or leg of anyone climbing the route. We tried to move it with a stick and it only made it angry so we packed back up and left. Be careful! Apr 22, 2012
Three friends and I climbed this on Janurary 8th which was a beautiful day, and made for pleasent "climbing" and an awesome rappel. This landform has probably the most thrilling rappel I have ever been on. However, the main purpose of my post is say that we built a cairn and added a modest summit register. It is at the very highest point of the rock(which requires more scrambling after the last pitch) in a bottle. We had a fun relaxing time on this as a rest day climb after a nerve racking, snowy epic on Castleton the previous day. Hope to see lots of entries the next time I'm up there. Jan 16, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
easy climbing even with the run out. we had to take the ranch road because the other road had equipment stuck in it. turns out if you have a 4x4 thats the ticket. you can park at the start of the climb. also no worries about getting to the rap anchors. we just did an easy walk around to them. absolutely no need to rap or lower to them. Sep 20, 2011
Nathan Tomlin
Boulder, CO
Nathan Tomlin   Boulder, CO
Saw some pitons for climbing the obvious crack inside the amphitheater leading to the rap station - anyone know what that climb is? Aug 17, 2010
Nathan Tomlin
Boulder, CO
Nathan Tomlin   Boulder, CO
I found out about the rock from 2 other webpages and stole the great info they had:
Aug 16, 2010

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