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GPS: 33.68665, -111.8089
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Shared By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 10, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
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Description Suggest change

One of three "Towers", Sven Slab 1 and 2 are located to the North just south of the Sven Slab formation.  Sven’s slab is sunny till mid afternoon; it’s a great crag to visit on a sunny winter day.

Getting There Suggest change

20-30 minutes and moderate with some scrambling and bushwhacking.
Start on Tom’s thumb trail.  5 minutes into your hike take a left at mesquite canyon trail. Continue on Mesquite canyon past the junction of feldspar trail.  You’ll pass the Girlie Man crag on the right.  Continue up the trail through the canyon to the saddle between Sven towers 3 and 2 (obvious sinage).  Turn left at the sign and head North-ish, on a good trail up and over Sven tower 2.  Between the saddle of ST2 and ST1 you’ll find another sign directing you to the bottom of Sven tower 2 and the path to Sven tower 1.   Continue North on the trail with the routes Cary’d Away and Stow’ed Away in front of you. You have the choice to go left or right around the ‘Away’ crag.  Left will take you on a scramble up to the top of Sven towers 1.  Follow cairns from here.  RIght takes you to the base of the routes.  If heading right, stay close to the wall, above the boulder field, and follow cairns.   After 5 minutes of light bushwhacking on a pretty reasonable trail you’ll come to the base of “Feel the creep” and “just fine”.   If this is your first time at this crag I’d suggest going right and taking the low trail as the top of the routes are a bit tricky to locate (though marked with cairns) from the top of ST1.  

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sven Tower 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Cary'd Away
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cary'd Away
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
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