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Porcupine Rock

Colorado > Keystone a.k.a. Monte…
Access Issue: Parking near private building and public bike path Details

Description

This crag is never crowded, has long routes, and the rock quality actually better than rumor has it.

L->R:

A. Snowblind, 8, 1p.
B. Soul Chicken, 11, 1p, bolts.
C. Unknown, 10+ PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
D. Eatin' Alive, 8, 1p.
E. Unknown Roof, 1p, TR.
F. Loose Goose, 9, 1p.
G. Weed Eater, 8, 1p.
H. The Quill, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.

Getting There

Porcupine Rock has a long and colorful climbing history. Though many have turned their heads toward other crags reputedly cleaner in nature, the short approach to great rock which just may require a bit of initial cleaning is hard to beat.

Park underneath the rock about 1 mile from the turn onto Montezuma Road.

Others may approach differently, however, I prefer to walk down canyon on the bike path for about 200m until reaching an old mining road (may be marked by a wood cairn). Branch out right and follow the casual trail/old road that leads towards Porcupine Rock. After 5 minutes, an old mine tailing pile is reached. go straight up the steep hillside for 25m, then find a cairned footpath to the base of the Rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 2
Thornbird
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
The Quill
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Pull Up A Drill
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thornbird
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
The Quill
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pull Up A Drill
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pull Up A Drill.
[Hide Photo] Pull Up A Drill.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] There are some sick lines up the trail a bit further from The Quill. A 10+ arete (5 draws and a #2 BD) and a spooky 11c: starts above a cave on a 30ft run out (5.9 chimney), bring a #1 BD and 8 draws. Oh yeah, the only bomber gear is the #1 and a single bolt...the pitons wiggle. Aug 15, 2010
Son
[Hide Comment] So, where is this crag you ask? I've never climbed here, and so tried the GPS coordinates listed. Nope, the GPS coordinates are wrong. After 30 minutes of searching, finally got it. Here are the correct GPS coordinates:

39.610333, -105.926492.

If you want instruction: while heading East on US 6, you drive thru Keystone. Take the Montezuma Rd exit. As soon as you start the exit, it is 1.2 miles down Montezuma Rd. The cliff is North of Montezuma Rd. (or to your left as you go down Montezuma). The parking lot is on North side of Montezuma Rd.

I hope that helps future climbers here! Aug 1, 2019
[Hide Comment] GPS coordinates on the site should be correct now. Aug 1, 2019
Thomas Chapman
Sewanee, TN
[Hide Comment] Been looking at this rock for weeks now. Are there any trad lines that climb the whole thing? Is the rock quality bad up high? Looks like there's potential otherwise. Aug 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] Thomas,

I recently cleaned up one of the older trad lines that goes up the right edge all the way to the top. Look for the start on the right side of the main wall, just to the right of two bolted lines. You can follow a crack pretty much the whole way and use the sport anchors (left of the trad line) for three raps back down to the bottom. You will still find some loose rock on this line, but it is not bad, and you can find good placements the whole way. Sep 8, 2019