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Routes in Mount Osceola Trail Crags

Tripoli Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unfinished Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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GPS: 43.918, -71.585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: bradley white on Jul 17, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

There's actually a lot of rock off of the Osceola Trail a 1/4 to 1/2 mile up it. It can be seen from the trail parking lot or the road. Another difficult to find area as you ascend the slope. The first rock you might encounter is the free standing pillar. It's about a 40ft of face and the sides are boulder problems 20ft high (5.5) to reach below it's top. Another first free soloed climb of the boulder problems. Later on I climbed the face with a rope and my friend named Michael. I Don't remember the gear placements. It was hard severe sustained climbing on the pillar central west side up a corner crack. The crags are granite. Higher up beyond the pillar and west of it is much bigger wall. There's many ways up this wall and other crags. There are tree gullies to 4th class up on the left side until steep walls with shallow ceilings are reached. There's great amount of unexplored climbs and difficulty to many of the ascents will happen because the crags are very steep. Most are probably 60 to 80 ft high on the central pillar section and east side. The west side is a little lower angled and much wider and 100+ foot wall.
The forest below the crags is heavily moss covered boulders and there are many body size holes and soft covered surfaces that will cause a cave in by body weight. Someone used beer cans on small pine tree tops to mark their way up to the pillar. I brought the cans home. Tripoli Road is closed in November after it snows and opens in May.

Getting There

Park at the trail head to Osceola Trail on the Tripoli Road at the Thornton Gap. Hike trail until large stream is crossed and open woods appear on the slope above the trail. Stay on trail to gain some more height and head up hill diagonal west a few degrees. There is a tall tree trunk of a fallen tree on the trail on the right and opposite this is a tree growing above a rock that are good landmarks to where to start uphill. The crags are not far from the trail. I have always gone after the leaves are off of the trees. Good luck.

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