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Meadow Brook Slabs

New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Greens Cliff

Description

Very secluded slab climbing on high quality stone, up to 3 pitches tall. The right side is shorter, with some steeper sections with corners and cracks. Expect to deal with some vegetation at the base of the climbs since the cliff receives few visits, but once above, the rock looks to be super nice almost white granite. There is plenty of room for new routing.

Getting There

See Glenn's maps. From the very small pull-off on the Kanc at 43.99704, -071.38081, ride bike back a few hundred yards to the river. Cross the river (usually knee deep) to a forest road connector and ride maybe 5 minutes to join Rob Brook road, bearing right. Continue on Rob Brook rd until you get to Swan's Junction, a large clearing with a kiosk. Take a left there and bike another 5-10 minutes, crossing 2 bridges. After a clearing, look for a somewhat overgrown road up to the right at 44.02058, -071.41216 that takes you into large clearing. Go left, following this maybe 10 minutes to old logging landing on the right. Take the obvious opening straight ahead and bushwhack northeast.

If the river is unfordable, you will have to park at the other end of Rob Brook rd at bear Notch rd, and ride all the way up it until you get to Swan's Junction from the other direction (easy, but a long ride). You could also shwack over and down from The Alcove if you were dedicated and adventurous (easy to get lost the first time)

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Kindred Spirits
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
 1
Regurgitation
Trad, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kindred Spirits
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Regurgitation
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Meadow Brook Slabs
[Hide Photo] Meadow Brook Slabs
Follow the red line to get to the slab. It should take about 90 minutes max from the road
[Hide Photo] Follow the red line to get to the slab. It should take about 90 minutes max from the road
The red is the west end of the Rob Brook road. The purple is the left hand logging road. You can ride a bike on the red and purple (very easy). Bush wack the yellow to the West Slabs. Have Fun.
[Hide Photo] The red is the west end of the Rob Brook road. The purple is the left hand logging road. You can ride a bike on the red and purple (very easy). Bush wack the yellow to the West Slabs. Have Fun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I'd love to have more details on the routes. Its a 45 minute bike ride and a 30 minute walk. The pull off parking area is a bouldered off logging road a few miles west of Bear Notch Rd. The river is less than knee deep and close to the Kanc but not visible from it. May 8, 2010
john strand
southern colo
[Hide Comment] Ya a bit past Passaconway but before the historical house (name ? ) I think it's a bit faster but really only for the west side. May 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] The pull-off is at 43.99704, -071.38081. I explored the cliff some on a wet day to find the routes. Kindred Spirits looked ready to go with just a minimal bit of cleaning needed at the start. Regurgitation needs extensive cleaning. My impression of the cliff is that the rock quality is high and there is potential for more good lines, but that they will require sustained effort to put them up, probably better spent elsewhere for now. If a party was going there regularly so the way in was fine tuned and beat out, the approach would not be bad, but right now it is kind of arduous. Sep 11, 2012