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Woodbridge Land Trust, Park Lane

Connecticut > CT Bouldering

Description

Small 1.55 acre wooded area with at least 3 large, free standing (maybe more) trap rock boulders.

Getting There

Park Lane in Woodbridge CT, off of route 243 (Fountain Street coming from New Haven). The first trail head is on the right about a half mile down Park Lane. There is also another entrance right on Fountain Street (directly after the Route 15 bridge), but it is harder to find reasonable parking.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

frankenrock
[Hide Photo] frankenrock
Purple: God's Own Hold (V2)<br>
Green: The Easy Way Out (V1)<br>
Red: Something in the Eye of the Beholder (V7)<br>
Blue: Frankenstein's Lab (V6)<br>
Black: Project<br>
Yellow: Tree Hugger (V3)
[Hide Photo] Purple: God's Own Hold (V2) Green: The Easy Way Out (V1) Red: Something in the Eye of the Beholder (V7) Blue: Frankenstein's Lab (V6) Black: Project Yellow: Tree Hugger (V3)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This area also has a smaller boulder (Rubix Cube) with an array of V0's and V1's. It is not anything special, but for a beginner climber it is a nice intro to climbing outdoors and a good warm up pit stop on the way to Franken. To get there, you take the trail on the right side of the road (same as for Frankenrock) and keep left whenever you can and eventually you will reach the power line corridor consisting of mostly brush where you should come across the rock. It lies less than a quarter mile north of Frankenrock. *poison ivy alert around Rubix
Cube* Oct 9, 2010
FooDawg
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Checked this spot out yesterday. Great place and has a lot of potential for creating new lines. Rubix cube has a lot of potential for short hard routes as well. Franken is great though. Def check it out. Thanks for the loc beta Chris... Nov 13, 2010
[Hide Comment] First a comment about the area - not really a climbing destination as it's very small but for those of us who live close (I'm exactly 11 minutes away car+walking) it's a super little place to grab some quick outdoor climbing. The woods is beautiful, the rock is nice (though a bit sharp) and the quality of lines is really pretty decent with a good range of difficulty.

This report has some very good details & decent photos of the area but it seems to be missing a few relevant problems. I'll try to get some photos and beta put up. Looking at the main face of Frankenrock there are a couple problems around the left side and the back corner. On the left side is a very short couple-move topout problem that comes up over a bulge and tops out to a slab. V-easy but a bit interesting and a good warmup.

In between that problem and the start of God's Own Hold is a *heinous* sit-start. A large undercling with good feet leads straight up with a big move to bad slopers. there's a poor but evident line of slopers along the lip that could probably be chained into God's Own Hold or even all the way around the corner to Frankenstein's Lab. I'm assuming it's a project, and definitely looks V-hard. [edit - I've been playing on this lately and it's not as hard as I once thought. I've chained most of it together and it probably goes around V6/7 if you finish on God's Own Hold, maybe more like V8/9 if you connect it to Frankenstein's Lab - mainly due to length]

The back corner of the boulder has about a three-move sit-start on two good underclings to a left-hand sidepull and then a large rail pinch to top-out. V-easy and short but the first couple moves are cool Aug 15, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
[Hide Comment] Oh my goodness, I can't believe this little area is in here. I grew up in the woods adjacent to these boulders and did many of the easier lines in the mid 1970s. If you poke around you will find other boulders---I remember at least six. And yes, this is a TINY area, but the woods are beautiful and it's super quiet. From the summit of the biggest boulder I used to be able hear my mom calling me in for supper. Jan 7, 2014
[Hide Comment] Might be a long shot but if you remember any of the lines u sent it would be great to get it on here. I can assist in updating if need be. Jan 8, 2014
[Hide Comment] Active birds nest there today
Birds on frankenrock
Jun 19, 2016
[Hide Comment] yeah, there's a few erratic boulders there. nothing to really write home about though. more convenient than quality. Apr 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] Went to Woodbridge for the first time. Went to warm up on the Rubix area but this block seems to be gone. They cleared a lot of trees taking out part of the trail and it seems the Boulder was removed as a result. Sad, seemed like a really good warm up spot for Frankenrock. Jun 13, 2021
Lyle M
New Haven, Ct
[Hide Comment] Just FYI, Rubix cube is very much still around. Jun 7, 2022