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Areas in Rochers de Néviau - Dave

Secteur Cosmos/Central 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Secteur Super Vol et Yeti 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 500 ft
GPS: 50.427, 4.873 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,160 total, 13/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jun 17, 2010
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Description

Popular since the 1930’s, with slippery, well-polished routes to match, Dave has a very short approach from a nice parking lot. Well bolted, most routes are under a half rope pitch in length, and there are a few that go for two pitches.

A compact crag with gobs of routes (nearly 200) ranging from 2 to hard 7, there’s a bit of everything at Dave. Some of the central cliff configuration, with large overhangs above lower angle slab faces, makes for a fine option for cragging in the rain.

Aspect is west to south facing. The tallest cliff section is around 70 meters or so high.

A set of quickdraws and a 60m rope would suffice for most routes, but, some run outs would be mitigated by a small selection of nuts and cams.

There are a number of secteurs, from climber’s left to right:

Les Autrichiens

46 routes from 2 to 6c. Some easy multi pitch routes with some well spaced fixed protection. On the right side of this area is a short tower: Bloc du Parachute. Just to the right and the descent for a number of these routes is a gully with an old WW2 vintage pillbox at the bottom.

Rochers de Néviau

126 from 3 to 7c+. The main, most popular area of the crag. Containing Secteur Cosmos, Secteur Central, and Secteur Super Vol et Yeti.

Rochers du Bivouac et de L'Oubliée

25 routes from 3 to 7a+ and located on the far right side of the area.

Dave has somewhat of an urban crag feel, with railroad tracks above the river, and nearby road traffic. The climbing is on compact, solid, dark and smooth limestone and tends to be somewhat tricky. Some routes might seem graded rather stiffly.

Getting There

Dave is located on the N947 between Jambes and Dave. 6km due south and across the river from Namur. 20km north of Dinant. The steep rock buttresses are easily viewable from the road and there’s a large parking lot on the west side across the N947 from the crag. Take care crossing the road as the traffic here really zips by.

Coming from the A4/E411 freeway, take the N90 west towards Jambes (and away from Beez which is to the east and towards the Marche-les-Dames climbing area). Follow the N90 as it bends around to the south (paralleling the Meuse River) and becomes the N947. A few kilometers past Jambes, and just prior to Dave, the rocks will appear on the east side of the road with fine parking on the west side.

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