This area holds the largest concentration of routes in the Welsford area, or all of New Brunswick for that matter. Trad, mixed gear and occasional sport routes. Quality rock abounds. Routes range in length from 30 to 200 feet. It is possible to link together 3 or 4 pitches to provide somewhat of a multi pitch experience but the majority of the climbing is single pitch. There are a high number of cracks but few pure crack climbs. The gear is generally good but be on the lookout for suspect rock as there are a few locations where the rock is less than bomber. This is generally a very quiet, out of the way area to climb. It is not uncommon for climbers to show up here on a weekday and have the entire cliff to themselves. The current guidebook, authored by Dominic Caron, is now either sold out or very copies remain available. Please respect local access regulations. This cliff is on CFB Gagetown property and is strictly regulated. Members of Ascent New Brunswick are permitted to call in for access. Everyone else must go to Camp Petersville (12 k north on route 7) to obtain a day use pass from Range Control. Please practise Leave No Trace principles. There is a spring directly below Joe's Garage. Be certain not to deposit human waste anywhere within 60 meters of the spring. In the event of an emergency call 911 and Range Control 506-422-2131.
2km South of the Rt101/Rt7 intersection Cochrane Lane turns off east, crosses the Nerepis Rivere and bends south. You'll notice a big yellow sign marking the trailhead, and just after this is a large gravel pit on the northeast side of the road, with some bricks and structures inside it. Park on the southwest side of the road across from the gravel pit at a small pulloff. You'll find the parking lot just before the road turns into a dirt road - do not continue further down the road as this is private property. Cross the farmer's field near the gravel pit and follow the trail along the back of the field. Dogs MUST be on leashes.
rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/20… Apr 13, 2020