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Lukenya

International > Africa > Kenya
Warning Access Issue: Must get permission from Mountain Club of Kenya: mck.or.ke DetailsDrop down

Description

A broken cliff system featuring a variety of shaded and exposed areas. Crags at the base of the hill have more vegetation. There are a plethora of trad routes, but access to top makes top-rope an option too. Mountain Club of Kenya owns the land, grants access for non-members, & has guide-books available. mck.or.ke

Getting There

1 hour South of Nairobi, down Mombasa Rd. Turn off left after you pass the hill and Edinburgh Castle - the crags are not visible when coming from Nairobi as they are on the South side of the hill. Pass through Lukenya school, paying a fee if you're not MCK, and follow the road that curves left to the base of the crags. Main Wall is first on your right after you pass an old gate, and if you keep going you get to the Picnic Tree and a high concentration of single-pitch crags.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A Fish on a rock
[Hide Photo] A Fish on a rock
Lots of climbing for new leaders as well
[Hide Photo] Lots of climbing for new leaders as well
Crushing
[Hide Photo] Crushing
There's even good bouldering scattered around.
[Hide Photo] There's even good bouldering scattered around.
Also a good place to learn aid - if you're into that.
[Hide Photo] Also a good place to learn aid - if you're into that.
Some high-quality problems if you're willing to bushwhack a bit.
[Hide Photo] Some high-quality problems if you're willing to bushwhack a bit.
More crags by the picnic tree
[Hide Photo] More crags by the picnic tree
Edinburgh Castle - long, hard, run-out single pitch
[Hide Photo] Edinburgh Castle - long, hard, run-out single pitch
Top of Main Wall
[Hide Photo] Top of Main Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] On the other side of the trad routes are some awesome sport routes and hard boulder problems tucked behind a boarding school and farm. Dec 26, 2011
[Hide Comment] Looking for partners for this crag - Lets go climb here sometime soon. Give me a shout - sommerlatt.darrell@gmail.com Jul 17, 2013
Nate Flynn
United States
[Hide Comment] Darrell S. where do you live in Nairobi? Aug 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] Anyone visiting Lukenya would do well to ignore - with a few exceptions - the routes listed here. Definitely get a guide book from the Mountain Club of Kenya. Any short-time visitor to Lukenya would be doing themselves a big injustice if you ignore these routes: Lizard (17); Princes Street (21); Calcutta (23); The Seventh Wave (17); Pigs Ear (19); El Duende (22). Not only will they give you some great climbing, but they will also get a feeling for the unique atmosphere of the place. Aug 15, 2022