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Access Issue: Climbing in Cuba is Alive and Well
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Cuba Remains Open to U.S. Climbers
Don’t be fooled by media reports. Trump has not made Cuba off-limits. The U.S. says your trip to Cuba will be legal if you stay, eat, interact with ordinary Cubans and climbers, and take climbing gear and provide donations to sustain the Cuban climbers. It’s a perfect fit to what climbers do anyway in Viñales. It’s that easy. Particulars are spelled out at Bolts4Cuba (
fundly.com/bolts-for-cuba-c…) and CubaClimbing.com (
cubaclimbing.com/essential-…).
There is No Real Closure or Access Problem In Cuba.
Now, years after Cuban authorities declared that almost all access to the mountains in Western Cuba was closed, everyone has learned to live with the so-called closure. It’s a Cuban version of a kabuki drama. The officials pretend that all access is closed. the climbers pretend to obey — as they go about climbing. All sides seem content.
The bottom line is that everyone is climbing. New routes, even bolt replacements, are continuing in Viñales. No one has ever been cited. Indeed no one has ever seen a copy of the closure, and some doubt it ever was put to paper. For more information go to cubaclimbing.com.
cubaclimbing.com/climbing/p…
Description
Climbing in Cuba isn't like climbing in any other place. The climbing is superlative, cracking jugs and pockets in chiseled karst limestone on improbable lines through stunning overhangs of stalactites and tufa columns.
Its multi-pitch classic climbs define big wall sport climbing with their remote locations and mandatory techniques like tag ropes and back clipping on rappel.
Climbing in Cuba is as much about Cuba as it is about climbing.
Few visitors to Cuba come away equivocal. Most become passionate about Cuba. The first Americans climbers went again and again, obsessed to keep returning, despite U.S. law threatening $250,000 in fines and 10-years imprisonment. The visiting climbers donated gear, clothes, even drills and bolts, and as a result, perhaps unlike any other climbing destination, the vast majority of first ascents have been done by locals.
Its lighting fast development and passionate popularity indicate that Cuba is quickly becoming one of the finest sport climbing destinations of the world.
It has seen an influx of leading climbers, such as Lynn Hill, Neil Gresham, Timmy O'Neil, and Jim Donini, and the development of a strong contingent of Cuban climbers, who are eager to climb with visitors.
Travel, digs, food, and climbing partners are no sweat. The beta on Cuba is at hand in guidebooks, websites, even Facebook.
American climbers need to realize that Cuba is not isolated from the world; it is Americans that are isolated from Cuba.
Perfect climbing days, mild weather, and everything from isolated beaches to caving and cockfights on rest days make for a one-of-a-kind adventure. Add an exciting, sensuous nightlife, the gregarious, vivacious Cuban people and the country may already be the best outdoor experience anywhere.
The Crags: Valle de Viñales
The focus of rock climbing activity in Cuba is the Valle de Viñales in the western, mountainous province of Pinar del Río. The Valle de Viñales is a national park and a World Heritage Site.
The mountains around Viñales have over 250 routes (300 pitches of climbing) with potential for hundreds more. The majority of routes lie within three main areas in the Valley: Mogote del Valle, El Palenque, and La Costanera.
More than 80 percent of the routes in Valle de Viñales are on the walls of Mogote del Valle. The closest routes are about one kilometer from town, and the golden walls and caverns of Mogote del Valle can easily be seen from the town of Viñales.
El Palenque lies four kilometers north of town and is easy to reach on foot, cab or bike. El Palenque was the hub of the first routes put up in Cuba. It may be the cushiest, most indulgent advance base camp in climbing. El Palenque is a bar by day and disco at night, under an immense hemisphere of limestone stalactites, pockets, and knobs, offering gymnastic bouldering on its walls and ceilings, and apre-climbing super-chilled beer or lush, frosty mojitos. You can return for the evening extravaganza and spectacularly clad mulata dancers. El Palenque provided the first American and Cuban climbers with rest and refreshments after a strenuous day of route-building, and new climbs were named for the disco songs that wafted out over the fields. Those days have passed, but El Palenque still offers uncommon diversions and high quality climbing.
La Costanera is a spectacular cathedral chamber of limestone. Its north facing walls are the best place to climb when it is hot. Usually, the north coast and ocean can be seen from the upper belays of La Costanera routes. Its 120m walls have yielded the greatest number of long routes of 4 to 5 pitches.
Getting Settled in Viñales
Twelve years ago, I wrote on Mountain Project, “The town of Viñales has remained a cozy, rural village of just a dozen streets or so. After a couple of days in town, you will feel at home and at ease finding your way around.”
That Viñales is gone, gobbled up by its popularity with tourists and an explosion of casa particulares and paladares, the Cuban versions of rooms and restaurants in private homes. Today, Viñales, along with Trinidad, are probably the most prosperous, dynamic, and entrepreneurial town in Cuba. The casa particular-paladar entrepreneurs have reshaped this small town in the middle of a national park and World Heritage Site.
Reserving rooms in casa particulares is becoming easy and routine. Most proprietors have email and cell phones. When calling a casa particular, it is best to have someone who speaks Spanish or a translated script with your information. You are calling a home, and you don’t know which family member might answer. Once in Cuba, speaking Spanish is less important.
To call Cuba, use prefix to call international, 011 from USA, country code for Cuba 53, and then number, such as those listed below. Cell phones usually start with 5.
It is advisable to have accommodations arranged for Havana in advanced. You don’t want to spend your first day looking for a room in a big city with limited transportation choices. For Viñales, a reservation in advance isn’t required, except during the end of year holidays.
Our recommendations are a mix of price levels and neighborhoods in Viñales. We recommend these casas because we trust the families to take good care of any guest.
1. Our favorite off-the-beaten-track choices are in the little village of El Palmar, only a few hundred meters west of Viñales and a 1km walk from the bus station. El Palmar is actually closer to the most popular climbs on Mogote del Valle than most of Viñales. Villa Las Vegas is a top pick in El Palmar. The prominent, nearby view is the wall of Gaujiro Ecologico. Villa Las Vegas is a completely independent house with one room, 2 beds, and space to spread out gear. Raquel Nodarse, husband Manuel García, and daughter Yomara live in the adjacent house. Casa 48796429. Cells 54508799 and 52671011. yomara.garcia@nauta.cu.
2. Across the way from Villa Las Vegas is Villa Las Palmeras of Xiomara and Tito. One room and a view from the large deck of El Mogote del Valle. Casa 48796035. cell 55450770. leidylauralopez@nauta.cu. Las Vegas and Las Palmeras are the first houses on the road entering El Palmar and closest to Viñales. Continuing up dirt road into El Palmar, the next few houses also rent good rooms.
3. Since 1998 the climbers’ base camp in Viñales has been the home of Oscar Jaime and Leyda Robaina. Its dirt-bag days when the first American and Cuban climbers shared floor space in a couple of room are long gone. It’s 3 or 4-stars now, with multiple rooms and private baths and terraces. There is a photo mural tracing the history of climbing in the valley. Adela Azcuy #43. Casa 48695516. Leyda cell, 52486770. Oscar cell 54055605. leyda.robaina@nauta.cu.
4. Next door is the spacious home of León León Hernández. León was one of first to rent rooms in Viñales, and he has hosted many climbers. Adela Azcuy No. 45-A. leonleonhdez@yahoo.es. 48796380.
5. To sample one of Viñales’ contemporary, built-to-rent casas, go to Leon’s daughter’s El Balcón de Mignelys y Juanito. Calle Rafael Trejo No, 48-A. elbalcon2005@gmail.com. casa 48696725. cell 52714699.
6. La Escalada is another modern house built-to-rent. Your hosts are one of Viñales’ best climbers, Jorge (“Tito”), and his beautiful wife Heidi. Jorge is available as a climbing guide. Camilo Cienfuegos #43. jorgepimente2011@yahoo.es / jorgeescladaencuba@nauta.cu. casa 48695476. cell 53097610.
7. María Elena Urra has a single room. It’s on Adela Azcuy and 50 feet from Calle Salvador Cisneros, as close to the heart of Viñales as you can stay. Adela Azcuy # 5-A. casa 79313. cell 52714698
8. Almost at the bottom of the hill on the north side of Adela Azcuy is Casa Tatica y el Chino. El Chino rents two rooms. Adela Azcuy Norte Final no. 61-C. casa 48695021. cells 53030649 / 52453116.
9 Up the hill from El Chino is Villa Loly El Habano. Another longtime renter. Four rooms. Loly and El Chino are among the casas closest to the crags. and popular with climbers on longer stays. Adela Azcuy Norte No. 55-A. casa 48695047. cells 53364592 / 54055608. villalolyelhabano@nauta.cu.
10 Casa Vladimir y Gladys is one of the excellent choices at the top, where Adela Azcuy meets Calle Salvador Cisneros. The family compound includes three casas. Vladimir y Gladys, Adela Azcuy No 10-A, casa 48696587. cell 53373911, gladys.sosa@nauta.cu. Casa Milagros y Yamile, No. 10, casa 48095678. cell 53311915.
11. Heading west on Calle Salvador Cisneros at the intersection with Calle Sergio Dopico (the entrance to the town from Pinar de Río) is the home of Dalia and Millo. They rent two rooms. Sergio Dopico #3A. casa 48696994. cell 53642614. has_millo@hotmail.com. tropiccollage.com
12. Villa Cristina is a top-tier casa on the western end of Calle Salvador Cisneros. Cristina Gómez and Juanito have a beautiful house with an enclosed compound of rooms, dining, living area, and parking. Cisneros No. 206. Casa 48793396. Cell 53311737.
13. Villa Gena is across the road from Villa Cristina and another excellent house on western end of town. Two rooms, private baths and terraces. Hosts are Eugenia and Sosa. Salvador Cisneros No 209. Casa 48793320. Cell 52483961. sosa80@nauta.cu
14. Down the street is Villa La Rueda of Catalina and Orestes. Catalina is a great cook. Two rooms; one is a large independent, rustic cabin. Salvador Cisneros No. 214. Casa 48695207. Cells 52446620 Roly (who speaks English). Osnan 52486662.
AirAndB, Trip Advisor, and the numerous guidebooks have more lists of recommended casas. If you can’t get a room in a someone’s recommended casa, relax. There are a profusion of excellent casa particulares in Viñales from which to choose. See an example
here.
Getting There
There are flights to Cuba from the Caribbean, Latin America, Canada, and Europe. Canada has the cheapest charters, although almost always to isolated beach resorts. Usually the cheapest flights are on Cuban Airlines, the state-run carrier that occasionally still flies ancient and scary Soviet-era planes.
Cuba welcomes tourists. Travel to and within Cuba is not restricted. A valid passport, which does not expire within six months of traveling there, is required for entry. Visas are not necessary. Instead your travel agent or airline will sell you a tourist card ("tarjeta de turista"). Cuban immigration stamps the tourist card rather than your passport. The latest info on flights, currency, ATMs and credit cards, and security are spelled out in the Cuba Travel page at
cubaclimbing.com.
Getting to Viñales is about the easiest transport in Cuba. There are two bus lines, and lots of private taxis waiting outside the two bus terminal in Havan. Renting a car is expensive and is not necessary. Within the town of Viñales everything can be reached on foot. All the climbing areas are within walking distance or a short cab ride.
Season and Weather
Cuba can be hot, but it is not the sweltering, muggy sweat-box of Southeast Asia. Nowhere in Cuba is far from the moderating, gentle tradewinds. December through March are perfect. October and November, the tail end of the hurricane season, and April have proved pleasant for climbing. Summer is a rainy season, but with overhanging routes and north facing walls, climbing is available all year.
What to Bring
You can climb in Viñales for a week with just a dozen quickdraws and a 60-meter rope. You'll be finished packing if you throw in a couple of T-shirts, some shorts, insect repellent and sun-screen. Not much else is necessary, as any casa particular will wash your clothes as soon as they hit the floor. Also, its warm enough to make rain gear pretty much dispensable. A few nights in January and February might get cool enough to warrant bringing a sweater or expedition-weight fleece.
Sport climbing in the tropics does not require much, which is a real bonus in this era of disappearing baggage weight allowance. Take advantage, and bring gear for the Cuban climbers.
Gear Donations
To sustain the local climbers, please pack extra climbing gear and leave it all behind. The Cubans need climbing equipment, as it's impossible to get it locally. The majority of visitors now follow the tradition initiated by the first visiting climbers, who left their rack, ropes, shoes and harnesses in Cuba. Try it. You will feel very gratified. Please don't take or leave gear you would not trust to climb. No castoffs from gyms lost-and-found and old rental shoes. Can't be resoled in Cuba.
Many companies in the climbing industry, donate gear, shoes, and clothes for the Cuban climbers. CubaClimbing,com relies on traveling climbers to carry these donations to Cuba. Contact the website to volunteer.
Planning Your Trip
cubaclimbing.com Perhaps the only thing Cuba lacked to make it a must see climbers destination was a world class guidebook. Now, the first guidebook to Cuba has been published. Cuba Climbing (Quickdraw Publications, 2009); however, is much more than merely descriptions of routes and approaches. As one would expect following the initial decade of climbing in Cuba, the guide reflects Cubas history of commitment and devotion. Its authors, Aníbal Fernández and Armando Menocal, are the first Cuban climber and one of the first foreigners, albeit a Cuban-American, to discover Cubas climbing potential. This guidebook is unique, intended to be a keepsake, a souvenir of a visitor's Cuban experience. Every photo, map, and topo is full color.
The guidebook authors also maintain an up-to-date website,
cubaclimbing.com, with last minute climbing news and featured routes. A highlight is a page with every article ever written about
climbing in Cuba - over 30 articles in all! The young Cuban climbers in Viñales have also created a useful website,
escaladaencuba.com. On Facebook, you will also find pages for
cubaclimbing.com,
Escalada en cuba, and
Cuba Bouldering. Cuba is a major tourist destination, and there are many good travel guidebooks available including Bradt, Eyewitness, Fodors, Footprint, Insight, Lonely Planet and Rough. Our recommendation is the Cuba Moon Handbook.
Legality
The first question for Americans, Is it legal? The answer is ever-changing, and may be wrong as soon as set in print or even on a website. For the latest status for American climbers, check cubaclimbing.com
The option that is always available is to fly to Cuba from a third country. Mexico, Canada, Nassau, Jamaica. The crux of this route is to keep your mouth shut when you return to the U.S. But if outed, say NOTHING. Don't try to explain or justify. You will only make the matter worst. Politely refuse to say anything. Almost no one is caught, and if you don't say anything or lie, nothing more will probably happen.
Cuba says, please come, and we will not even stamp your passport. Cuban immigration doesn't care whether you are coming legally or not.
Recommended Climbs on Mogote del Valle
4s and 5s
El Asegurador Cuenta, 4+/5.8
En la Sombrita, 4+/5.8
El Repaso, 5/5.9
Ojos Carmelitas, 5+/5.10a
Torre Blanco, 5+/5.10a
Psicologia Infantil, 5+/5.10a
Mi Cusi, 5+/5.10a 6s
Pitú, 6a/5.10b
Chipojo, 6a/5.10b
Fantasta de la Ópera, 6a/5.10b
Guao, Guano y Espina, 6a/5.10b
La Cuchillita, 6a/5.10b
Calentando Baterías, 6a/5.10b
Tarentola, 6a+/5.10c
Filo de Cuchilla, 6a+/5.10c
Más Tarde, 6b+/5.11a
Aserejé, 6a+/5.10c
La Mulatisima, 6a+/5.10c
RM, 6a+/5.10c
Puro Cubano, 6b+ /5.11a (1st pitch)
Fernando's Hideaway, 6c/5.11b
Ana Banana, 6c/5.11c
Psicosis, 6c, 3 pitches/5.11c
Huevos Verdes con Jamón, 6c+/5.11c 7s
Summertime, 7a/5.11d
Calzo de Guagua, 7a/5.11d
Cuando los Angeles Lloran, 7a/5.11d
La Vida es Bella, 7a/5.11d
Catamarán, 7a+/5.12a
Brutus, 7a+/5.12a
Malanga Hasta la Muerta, 7b+/5.12c
Wasp Factory, 7b+/12c
Romeo y Regleta, 7b+/12c
Pichulina San, 7b+/12c
Medio Bandidos, 7b+/12c
Cuando el Mal es el Cagar, 7b+/12c
Amigos en el Tope, 7c/5.12d 8s
Hay Papito, 8a/5.13b
Esplendidos, 8a/5.13b
The Colony, 8a+/5.13c
One-Inch Punch, 8b+/5.14a
Boulder, CO
Charles Aug 10, 2010
Westminster, Colorado
Westminster, Colorado
Canada Mofuga
Boulder, CO
Bend, OR
The so-called climbing closure has become a predictable, choreographed dance: the local officials pretend climbing is prohibited, and climbers pretend to obey. Everyone is happy. No one has ever been cited or had any type of punitive action. Those inadvertently caught climbing are asked politely to stop and move on.
The so-called U.S embargo is also no more than symbolic. Everyone is going; no one is fined or penalized, even if caught or if you fess up when confronting U.S. immigration. All your confession gets you is, Next in line.
As usual, CubaClimbing has gear to send to the Cuban climbers. Climbers who will be going to Cuba are asked to help take gear that has been donated by Climb X, Madrock, Marmot, Petzl, PrAna, and many individuals.
The website CubaClimbing is temporarily down for updating. If going to Cuba and want to help or need info, write to armando@cubaclimbing.com
Ignore the Climbing Season graph on this page: June through September is Cubas rainy season. October through May is the best time to climb.
1. You cannot get the Cuba Climbing guidebook in Cuba; buy it before you go. It is a great resource.
2. When we were there there was absolutely no evidence of a climbing ban. Unless things change, it's open. Don't sweat it.
3. American can now go to Cuba legally under a "general license" that does not require prior approval but travel must meet certain criteria. While a sport climbing vacation wouldn't meet these criteria, there might be some ways to do some service projects (or "people to people" or "promoting democratic ideas") and such while there that could allow you to go legally (see treasury.gov/resource-cente…). Of course many Americans still go illegally as well, and although it does seem to be more common for folks to get their passports stamped now it also seems that enforcement is slim to none.
4. Bring some gear down to leave for the Cuban climbers. Don't bring them old junk. Seems like the thing they mostly need is glue-in bolts (titanium are best, but the Petzl Collinox are probably ok as well). If you speak any spanish you'll meet folks at the crags around Vinales for sure. Cubans are a very friendly bunch.
5. Do watch out for rusted bolts. There's plenty of good bolts and climbing that you can do without worry, but there are a lot of bolts that need replacing. If I were planning to go and stay for more than a week or two, I'd definitely bring gear to retrobolt and plan some time for that. There is a thriving Cuban climbing scene and definitely talk with the locals before pulling the drill out, but my impression is that there's lots of awesome routes there and there's lots more potential, and while the temptation would be to make your mark by putting up a sweet new route, I think that getting all the routes at the easily accessible crags close to town reequipped with good glue-ins before people start pulling them and decking is really what's needed.
6. Partially due to technology and partially due to not wanting to leave an obvious trail, it's difficult to get more money once in Cuba so most folks travel there with the money you plan to spend. That's a bit challenging, but overall our experience was that Cuba felt very safe.
7. Some of the coolest steep limestone tufa climbs anywhere. Very fun. Apr 1, 2015
Louisville, CO
Just returned from Cuba on Feb 17th. Got over to Vinales. Unfortunately, due to being sick, I got in only one really good day of climbing. Here’s what I experienced.
1) I had not booked a casa particular to stay in. The town of Vinales was packed with Tourists. I was able to find a place to stay but I had to change my casa every night due to availability issues. I would recommend booking a casa in advance. I believe there are various web sites you can do this on plus I have info on a casa below.
2) When I got there I walked around the crags and ran into two Germans who had rented all their equipment including a rope from Raul (of Raul’s farm) for about 10 CUC (equivalent approximately $10) per day. I checked out the gear and it seems in fine shape including the rope. They told me Raul had a room packed with shoes, harnesses, ropes, helmets, and draws. Probably the by product of foreign climbers leaving their gear behind. So if you show up with absolutely no gear you can still climb.
3) I didn’t have a partner and I hardly saw anyone climbing. The crags were empty. Fortunately, I was able to communicate to Maria, the owner of the casa I was staying in, that I was there to climb. She promptly brought forth her neighbor, Luis, who was a climber. So I made plans to climb with Luis and his brother Jorge.
4) I went climbing for a day with Jorge and Luis. They were both plenty strong, competent and, of course, they know all the crags. Jorge was participating in the big Cuban climbing comp later that week which included such stars as Sasha Degulian.
5) Both Jorge and Luis are climbing guides in Vinales. They charge 20 CUC per day per person. (It’s straight up 20 CUC, no half days) So if you go alone you can climb with those guys, or if you want someone to show you around the crags for a couple of days they have all the beta. Jorge is an excellent English speaker so there’s no language barrier. Plus, Luis has a casa in the middle of town you can stay in if you book in advance.
6) Contact Jorge if you are looking for guides, Contact Luis if you’re looking for a place to stay.
Jorge: jorgeescaladaencuba@nauta.cu or Jorgepimentelmorales@gmail.com The first e-mail address it the best one to use but either one works.
If you want to stay at Casa Luis the contact info is luisenrique.pimentel@nauta.cu
If you have any questions just ding me through Mt project.
Chow!
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What to bring:
60 meter rope minimum. 70 meter is best if you have it.
12-24 quick draws.
chalk, harness, and shoes.
Webbing to replace sun baked old stuff.
Buy the guide book prior to trip and bring.
Stuff to give to Cubans. (soaps, shampoo, medical stuff,.... Things are very difficult to get for Cubans)
Take note:
If you are bringing gear to donate, bring bolts and anchors! This will help with the development of more routes. We brought a pack full of gear and rope to donate, but after donating the gear that got put into an overly large pile of already donated gear we decided to donate our new rope to a farmer that generously allowed access through their land.
If you are going to stay in a Vinales casa be advised that Vinales is on the tour bus route and it is very busy, noisy, and touristy. We stayed in 3 different casa's and enjoyed all, but slept well at the ones located on the outskirts of town.
Bring anything you can't live without. This is an anti capitalistic country! Cubans have a hard enough time getting basic supplies, so the few stores that you can buy from have lots of bare shelves.
Hope this helps. Cuba is a safe, friendly, place with amazing climbing! Enjoy!
8/31/2017
Trump's changes in Cuba policy have not gone into effect yet. Like the transgender ban in the military, nothing will happen until the regulatory departments decide how to implement Trump's executive order.
Please apply for the visa through this link and pay $50 to get a "people-to-people" visa. You need your flight number, reservation number, date of travel, and select "people-to-people" from the drop-down list
cubavisaservices.com/produc…
PLEASE DO THIS TODAY, because the rules will change soon and when they do, the People-to-People category will be eliminated.
I attach the official rules from the US Government, which I got from here:
treasury.gov/resource-cente…
According to Tripadvisor reports you just check the box (People to People) and no one asks questions.
tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g…
Print out the confirmation page to show that you paid, because we pick up the visa at check-in. Aug 31, 2017
Would love as much beta on this as possible before buying a nonrefundable ticket! Nov 6, 2017
Maine
There are many corroded bolts in need of replacement at all the crags. Many of these bolts are original, two decades old, and non-stainless. The issue is really prevalent at La Costanera, where only 2-3 routes currently have trustworthy equipment. For example, the final pitches of Have a Cigar look incredible but are protected by rusted and now green-colored plated steel bolts that are actually falling out of the rock. Dec 31, 2017
You do know that there is an ongoing anchor replacement project in Cuba, and that it has provided over $3,000 in gear to upgrade bolts? fundly.com/bolts-for-cuba-c…
There is a way to help. Dec 31, 2017
Boise, ID
Please make sure to check for ticks. I found a few when I got home. I highly suspect our last night in Havana, but you never know. Feb 3, 2018
Boulder, CO
I also met a legit local climbing guide named Raul Casas Junco. He has great english if Spanish isn't your thing as is all about supporting the Cuban climbing community and any gear you donate to him will be shared between stoked Cuban climbers. His phone number is (+53) 53989779, email raulcasas@nauta.cu, or insta @rauliextrem.
Let me know if you need any help or have any questions via social media (Gregory Farlow) or email (gsfarlow@gmail.com). Feb 6, 2018
Chattanooga, TN
1) Speaking spanish is not essential, but helps a lot. A little goes a long way.
2) Bring mosquito repellent. Seriously. Especially if you're going in the summer.
3) Stay the first night in Havana and have your casa host arrange you a taxi collectivo. It'll cost 20 CUC/person. We were going to take the bus, but with taxi rides to the bus station and back, purchasing tickets a day in advance, etc, it was easier and not any more expensive to take the collectivo. Same thing on the way back. They leave twice a day to my knowledge (morning and early afternoon).
4) Stay in Vinales proper somewhere. There has to be at least 1000 nice casas with all the amenities and the walk is not far to the Mogote. Close to Adela Azcuy is nice because you'll have a straight easy walk to the climbing.
5) Johanes at Raul Reyes' farm makes the best mojito in Vinales (at least of the ones I tried).
6) Yarobys Garcia lives in a house on the left side of the road only a short distance before the entrance to Raul Reyes' farm. You'll see a fence with a small gate held closed with some 7mm cord or other climbing gear. He speaks English and is psyched to guide or give beta. Definitely stop by and say hello at the least, he's a super nice guy. All the local climbers stop by for coffee or a chat before heading to the Cueva. He's also the FA of at least half to the climbs you'll try in Vinales. Say hello to his big friendly dog named Sharp for me.
7) Don't mess around with Santanillas. They're the worst. Don't lean on any trees or fences or set your pack down against them. Trust me.
8) We went in June and were the only foreign climbers there (with the exception of two European girls being guided by Yarobys one day). Most days we never saw another person at the walls climbing. I'd recommend going in the winter, as the heat, bugs, humidity, and jungle were brutal. If you do go in the summer, wait until about 4:00pm to walk to the crag and start climbing around 5:00pm. Jun 19, 2018
1.Consider bringing some sort of way to make water potable. The tap water is not a good option for travellers, so that leaves you with bottled water. After spending so long in Cuba and drinking 2-3 1.5L bottles a day I felt super bad about the amount of waste I was generating. If the waste aspect doesn't matter to you, also know that itll cost between 0.60 cuc and 2cuc for bottled water and it can take some effort to find for less than 2cuc some times. Some American climbers were using life straws and a SteriPen and they were doing great.
2. Another preachy waste thing, " no paja por favor" is a good phrase if you want to not receive a plastic straw with every drink you receive.
3. There's a really good restaurant on the way to Cueva Larga called La familia. The food and service there are amazing (not just by Cuba standards). 3cuc will get you a huge plate of rice and beans as well as a 1/4 chicken or ropa vieja (amazing shredded beef in sauce). We found navigating Cuban food challenging as both the prices and quality were very hit or miss.
3. The owner of La familia has a son getting into climbing. He apparently needs climbing gear. We had already donated our gear to Raul and I wish I'd been able to give it to him directly. Although from what I've heard Raul is a solid person to donate to because he will get it to someone who needs it. If you're bringing stuff to donate, consider donating it to the La Familia son!
4. Palenque cave on Saturday night was bonkers. Do it.
5. The anchors in lots of places have hangers that are offset, without chains, and have quick links instead of mallions. We were trying to pack really light so that we'd be left with minimal gear to travel around with after donating our climbing gear. I didnt bring an atc to rap down the routes, and we had to lower off all of them. With the anchors set up the way they were it was hard on the ropes and twisted them quite a bit. I guess this is a long form way of saying you should rap off the routes if you can. Especially since hardware is hard for them to come by.
6. The one thing I'd always heard is that it's good to bring soap, diapers etc etc to give to cubans. I'm not trying to say you shouldnt do this, but one thing I will say is it can be weird to actually do the donating part. We heard from other travellers who found it awkward to give stuff away because you basically are saying "hi I think youre poor so here's some soap." maybe this doesn't concern you but if you do want to donate something else climbing gear is a good option. We left our harnesses, a friend's 70m rope, and shoes. If you don't want to leave your own stuff, they also really need hardware I.e Bolts, hangers, glue, proper anchors etc. The people at Cubaclimbing.Com were very responsive and can tell you more about what they need and where to bring it. Dec 24, 2018
IMO, the rock and climbing are better in Cuba than El Portrero. El Portrero is cooler and less humid than Vinales in the winter, but I think the limestone in Cuba is better (less sharp grey stuff and more caves, tufas, and the like) and the scene is much more comfortable. So, if you’re looking for a January limestone destination in this hemisphere, and it comes down to Portrero and Cuba, I’d pick Cuba just for the rock. Add in the Cuban people and unique amenities (e.g., habanos), and it is not even close.
The biggest (and maybe only real) hassle we had was dealing with taxis. In short, if you don’t speak Spanish and make an effort to figure out what going prices are before you arrange for one, you’ll likely pay more than those that hablan espanol and are in the know. To provide some yard-stick, we paid 25 and 30 CUC between the airport and Old Havana, 120 CUC from Old Havana to Vinales and 85 CUC from Vinales to Old Havana, 12-15 CUC round-trip between Vinales to El Palenque, and 30 CUC was quoted to us for the round-trip between Vinales and La Costanera (which, sadly, we didn’t get to, but I will next time!). Although all these trips were by private yellow taxi, my sense is that we generally paid too much – but you can’t blame these folks given our respective economic situations.
When you first get to Vinales, I’d recommend heading to the plaza (easy to find) just after dusk the first few evenings. You very likely will run into Cuban or foreign climbers who can give you (in English) the most up-to-date beta on everything Cuba. Another place you would be highly likely to get good beta is La Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca; seems at least a small gathering occurs there every afternoon after the cave goes into shade. Folks are very friendly.
PM me if you want more info and/or some recommendations for casas particulares, but do it before my senility wipes the disk clean. Mar 17, 2019
"Obama changed most categories to general licenses, which greatly eased all restrictions. That plus never asking anyone for justification pretty much opened travel to Cuba. Switching everything to general license with zero enforcement makes the categories and rules inconsequential. You can say you’re a journalist or that you went to visit your mother who is Cuban.
"So much for the media humbug about removing the individual people-to-people category. The real stories isn’t the rules but that almost a year into the Trump administration, the policy of non-enforcement of the general licenses continue."
Now it's 2 years of non-enforcement. Don't think it will change.
Good info, John, thanks. Mar 18, 2019
Ambato, EC
Many thanks.
Lucky Oct 23, 2019
francisco.calvo@nauta.cu Mar 2, 2020
Carbondale, CO
Thinking about heading there in June, but it looks like it might be brutally hot.
Any insight is helpful! Mar 12, 2020
Truckee, CA
Jibacoa was an awesome little crag with enough 5 star climbs for a long weekend or so. Lots of the routes were just put up for the festival and the rock is itching to be climbed. The crux is that this area seemed to be "real" Cuba, as far a food/accomodations/lodging/water/etc go, it could use some improvements. I'd still highly recommend checking it out before heading to Vinales, just show up prepared as the Cubans do with lots of snacks, pesos, toilet paper, soap, and anything else you may need. Visiting a place like Jibacoa gave me a slightly more insightful view into how I would guess the rest of the country lives outside of Vinales/Trinidad/and the other major tourist sectors that actually exhibit some sense of capitalism.
And for an official March, 2020 update on "if Americans can travel to Cuba", absolutely no roadblocks for us on either end. At the customs desk coming back into Florida, the immigration officer only asked us how many bottles of rum and how many cigars we were bringing home. Nothing about our trip purpose, support for the Cuban people, etc...
Book a trip! You won't regret it! Mar 18, 2020
North Bend, WA
For those of you worried about traveling from the US, don't be. It was way easier than we had imagined. We booked flights with Jetblue directly from the US with a layover in Fort Lauderdale. Once the flights were booked, we filled out an affidavit online that was sent to us. On our layover in Fort Lauderdale, we went to the desk for our next flight where we bought our visas (this could vary a bit by airline, but I think they all have a way to buy your visa through them). They also had us fill out a Cuba entry form online. After that it was as easy as traveling to or from any other country. We were never questioned or asked why we were traveling to Cuba.
Just make sure you use the "Support for the Cuba people" reason for travel. Stay and spend your money with locals, and bring some gifts of hard to find items for the people you meet. Feb 17, 2023
Duluth, MN