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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 5,359 ft
GPS: 40.981, -111.872 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,468 total · 80/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq


A relatively solid chunk of rock, this crag is home to numerous lines. This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. Approach via hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. There are a number of fixed anchors around the top of the crag for easy and accessible top roping.

The Farmington Crag refers collectively to the main crag and the island crags surrounding it. Currently there are no trails and so it's a bit bush-wacky. Be very careful of rock fall! While hiking near the long-wall crag East of the main crag yesterday, I dislodged a massive boulder that went thundering down the hill-side! Seeing it make such destruction as it hurdled down the slope was a sobering reminder of how bad things can go wrong when they do go wrong.

Getting There

Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Farmington Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ryan in a Bikini
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ryan in a Bikini 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
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Penny L
Farmington, UT
Penny L   Farmington, UT
The views are great and great for photo ops. The belay areas are steep on the east side, but are manageable and make for a great shaded area in the summer. As dusk nears be prepared to see the deer start to move around and feed. The hike is long, even if you begin from Bonneville Shoreline, and the rocks get steep nearer the crag, so be careful. Probably due to this, I haven't seen anyone else up there when I have gone. Jul 25, 2016
What a great hiddin gem right in the back yard of Framington. I feel that its is really well protected all the way around the top. the bottom belay areas still need a little tlc but a fun wall never the lease. It would be nice to know which one was which. May 8, 2011
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers Jun 10, 2010

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