Francia Bánya Climbing
|GPS:||47.539, 19.01 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Pal Pocsi on May 21, 2010|
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DescriptionFrancia Bánya is an old limestone quarry. There are 12 routes listed in the Magyarország Sziklamászó Kalauza (Climbing Guide of Hungary). The height of the routes is about 15 meters (50 feet). There are also many trails in the area that can be hiked, biked, or run on.
Most of the routes are well equipped with bolts and have chain anchors at the top. Some are meant to be top roped and one can be climbed as a short trad line. The difficulty ranges between V and IX (UIAA rating). This corresponds to 5.7 and 5.13a Yosemite grade. The routes are all found on the right hand side of the wall.
In addition to the bolted routes, there are a lot of bouldering opportunities. There is a pretty cool little cave area near the middle section and some easier problems at the far left end. There are very long traverses that can be done across the crag (200 meters worth).
It is a popular spot and you will most likely have company just about any day of the week. Probably as a result of all the traffic, you'll notice very well worn holds on slick limestone. The good news is that the smooth stone is easy on your skin.
Climbing is only allowed between the hours of 6AM and 8PM or sunset. There is a water pump at the Fenyőgyöngye stop of the 65 bus.
For after climbing food and drink, check out the Fenyőgyöngye Vendéglő right at the 65 bus stop. The food is excellent and the prices are reasonable. Check out fenyogyongye.hu for more details and a menu.
Getting ThereTake the 65 bus from the Kolosy Tér to its final stop (Fenyőgyöngye). Look for the trail leading to the crag on the left hand side of the road (as you are going up hill just before the final stop). There is a sign with a trail map that is quite helpful.
Walk downhill on the trail parallel to the road you just came up on with the bus. There is a fork in the trail right around the spot where the fence/railing on your left ends. Take the right fork and walk for about 200 meters until you arrive in a clearing. The wall will be on your right hand side.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season