Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Iron Gate, VA

Fetish Wall 8 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Gotham City Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description

This is a fun little spot for day climbs. Easy access from Southeast West Virginia, and Roanoke Virginia area. It's close to the highway (practically on top of it!), but you don't really notice the noise, except for that of the occasional train. Bonus: not crowded.

Description from Eric Horst's, Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland: "Highly fractured, mainly vertical sandstone cliffs with mixed protection and sport climbs up to 90 feet.

Be on the lookout for poison ivy.
Private Land: Closed Details

Getting There

South of I-64 about 3 miles on U.S. 220. Turn off on VA 616 and park on the right (GPS coordinates given on map). Hike out to U.S. 220. There is a short, steep access climb closer to parking that is not recommended. Go a little further and you'll see an access trail.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Iron Gate, VA Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Gate, VA

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Iron Gate, VA »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Eric Angel
Fincastle, VA
Eric Angel   Fincastle, VA
As a climber who put up some of the routes here I would highly recommend that everyone resist the temptation to climb here. The first reason is that the landowners don't want you climbing here on their property and the 2nd reason is that none of the bolts are stainless steel bolts, and even the newest lines were bolted circa 1994. Thus, you should not trust the fixed gear. For many years this crag was a quick getaway when we couldn't get to the NRG, but it has not received any attention for at least a decade. As for the routes on the other side of the river, they too were bolted in the early 90s, and the fixed gear is suspect as well. While there are sections of decent stone, the wall (rainbow ridge) on the Jackson River side has a lot of loose rock. Oct 6, 2017
Has anyone been climbing here recently or have any updates? We just moved here and were looking forward to a close climbing spot! Mar 12, 2017
Andy B.  
I just checked out The Access Fund and the area is closed for sure as of now. May 30, 2014
Chase Flint
Lexington, Virginia
Chase Flint   Lexington, Virginia
After looking at it more closely, it looks like only a third or so of the crag is actually on private property (Looks like the Gotham City Wall portion) so I think most of the area is okay. Probably worth closer investigation just to be sure though. May 11, 2014
Looking at the Allegheny county's GIS, the Craig does appear to be on private property. Although most of the rock across the river is on Forest Service land.

You can check it out for yourself:
alleghany.mapsdirect.net/ May 7, 2014
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Thanks for the update Chase. If you or anyone else has any updates, please share! May 6, 2014
Chase Flint
Lexington, Virginia
Chase Flint   Lexington, Virginia
Does anyone know about the status of public access to Iron Gate? I've climbed there several times in the past 9 months or so and have never had any problems, but was told by a local store owner that the land has been (somewhat) recently purchased and is now closed off to the public.

From what I've gathered, the land was actually bought several years ago (2009 I believe?) but apparently the land owner has started having people arrested for trespassing in the past few weeks. The store owner told us that a few people that had been "mushrooming" were arrested within the past two or three weeks and that another local man serves as the caretaker for the land owner and patrols the area somewhat regularly. We spoke with the caretakers wife, who told us she doesn't believe they give permission to climb because of liability.

Does anyone know how accurate this information is? I've been a number of times in the past year and have only ever seen people out there once, but this is apparently a somewhat recent development. May 6, 2014
Cameron Sumpter
Lander, WY
Cameron Sumpter   Lander, WY
I should be back out there again soon to work on clown attack. Ill take a nice camera with me and get some high res pics of all the routes. Feb 5, 2012
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
This place is awesome! Pretty pleased to have climbed here. Great well protected sport/trad and some fun lines!! May 23, 2011
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
HA! Thanks Dubo, I should have guessed it would be you who adds the info. I appreciate it! Seems like a nice spot. Mar 31, 2011
i have some information i'll work on adding over next few days Mar 30, 2011
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Does anyone have any additional routes, names, grades, photos, descriptions that they could post about the place? I see 2 more routes in the beta picture at least. Looks like a great crag, but I'm sure people would be stoked to see more info if anyone has some. Thanks! Mar 28, 2011

More About Iron Gate, VA

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Iron Gate, VA (6)

Most Popular · Newest