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Routes in Cotton Top

Ass Waxer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Audiophering S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bio-Slab S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton Gin and Tonic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cotton the Act S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cottonhead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cottonmouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End of Innocence S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Final Twilight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fireman's Belay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Incident V6 7A
Intergalactic Orcas S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Johnny Chimpo V5- 6C
Love Sock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Fine Shindig V5 6C
Ostracized S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Wrangler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Q-tip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rheesist, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Slave Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tainted Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tamarin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
We Got Problems V2 5+
Wurst Route at the New, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is one of the farthest-downstream crags of the NRG; several miles below Bubba City, and below Hawk's Nest Dam on the New. It's home to a number of good sport routes; Psycho Wrangler, 5.12a, is not to be missed. If this area has seen rain recently, especially a heavy rain, expect to have some runoff, particularly the vertical wall right of Psycho Wrangler.  Many of the routes stay wet for a couple days on this wall after a heavy rain.

Getting There

From Fayetteville, drive north on 16 for 7 miles until you hit a bridge that crosses over the New River, just below the Hawk's Nest Dam. The parking is immediately on the right after crossing the bridge. Follow the trail behind the parking area (go right at the first Y) to the top of the hill along a short but steep trail. 

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cotton Top

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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wgibb  
Wanted to clarify something about the cotton top approach trail. The trail starts about 3-4 yards from the road and is easy to miss, as there is lots of ground cover in the area. Jul 14, 2015

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