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Routes in Devil's Race Track

Bounty Hunter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With the Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Day at the Races S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flesh Gordon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gargoyle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Balls of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Ol' Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Wing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Look Ma, No Head! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Malice in Wonderland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Natural Lite T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Palm Tree S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumpleforeskin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Russian One Step T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sonic Temple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Rash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertical Imbalance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome to the Jungle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a M11+
Wet Willie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombie Stomp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 1,728 ft
GPS: 36.329, -84.223 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,775 total, 181/month
Shared By: Baikenbitz on May 2, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

Devil's Racetrack is a formation of two rock 'fins' that stick out of the side of the mountains along side of I-75 just North of the 134 exit in Caryville. They are all very solid rock, nothing is very brittle, but the thing you have to look for is vegetation. Moss is really bad on several spots. Other than that the rock is spectacular. Great views on top of great climbs. The bolts are all really well placed, and anchors are very solid. The approach trail is a tad steep in some spots, so be careful if its wet out. The routes range from 5.3 to 5.9 on trad and 5.8 to 5.11 on sport. So there is stuff for everyone.

Getting There

Take exit 134 on I-75. From there drive to Cove Lake State Park. Go past the entrance to the park, and take the next left. Follow this road until it intersects Butter and Egg Road. Continue through the intersection. After about a quarter of a mile, you will see a New house with a RED TIN ROOF. Turn left down the gravel road directly BEFORE this house. After less than a minute, you will see a gravel road on the right blocked off with big boulders. Park here, and hike up the gravel road parallel to the creek for several minutes until you see a easy place to cross the creek to your right. Once you cross the creek follow the paths upto the nose of the main spire. Everything to the left of the nose is the north face, everything to the right is the Alley.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Race Track

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Russian One Step
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Palm Tree
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucy in the Sky
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bounty Hunter
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Little Wing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Russian One Step 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Palm Tree 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lucy in the Sky 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Bounty Hunter 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Little Wing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Race Track »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Brad Beggs
Knoxville
Brad Beggs   Knoxville
Climbed at DRT for the second time Saturday, Nov 11th 2017.

Cool temperatures but late day sunshine warmed the north facing rock, making for pleasant climbing. Several families hiking the Cumberland Trail, which passes under the climbing area.

No issues with parking.

The lower wall (the first wall you hike by after crossing the stream) has two good climbs (maybe 5.9 for the left one, and 5.8 for the right) that are fully bolted - but all these bolts need some TLC. These routes on the lower wall are mentioned in a photo here on MP but not listed in a description. Left route has 6 bolts (includes anchors) and right route has 10 bolts (includes anchors).

No sign of bees (hive or activity) on Lucy in the Sky. All these bolts (and anchors for 13 bolts total) need replacing. Climber beware. Nov 14, 2017
Brad Beggs
Knoxville
Brad Beggs   Knoxville
Climbed at DRT for the first time on Sunday, March 5th 2017.

There were a good number of hikers along the Cumberland Trail (which DRT parking serves as an access to. Be sure to hike upstream to check out the waterfalls...only 5 more easy minutes of hiking past the river crossing point).

No issues with parking. I've had several friends go over the last several months without issue either. The former hobo camp is no longer used. The Cumberland trail is helping get more people to go to DRT.

Short hike to the lower wall (the first wall you see across the creek, as stated in other comments). The fire burn from summer 2016 makes navigation easy (good views to where you need to go) but a little tricky since there is no defined trail.

Bolts on the popular routes are good. Bolts on less popular easier routes (aka Palm Tree, Bounty Hunter, Day at the Races ) need replaced. Lots of potential for new moderate routes. Mar 7, 2017
Kim Ran  
We went to Devil's Race Track not sure what to expect since most people we talked to said it wasn't worth it. We cleaned out the car and left the windows down and doors unlocked to prevent any break-ins.

Thanks to the above-mentioned beta and photos, we easily found the river crossing. However, once across the river it was very difficult to make out the trail, as this area was evidently affected by the recent wildfires. There were fallen trees everywhere and the ground itself was eroding pretty badly, making for unsure footing. It's a steep hike, but pretty obvious where you're headed.

The fins are very cool and unique formations. It was a bit confusing trying to route find, but once we got our bearings (with the help of the diagrams posted) we were able to figure out which routes were which. The rock was solid and the bolts and anchors looked decent as well. I'm not quite sure why this area doesn't see more traffic, as it's in very close proximity to Knoxville, great rock, and plenty of moderate grades which makes it a fantastic place to practice multipitch.

It's fun adventure climbing - though the highway being right there may take away from the wilderness experience. Devil's Race Track is a neat spot and I will definitely return to further explore the area. Dec 11, 2016
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
Jim, sorry to hear about the vandalism, that's such a bummer. Thank you for posting and offering some alternative parking options. Nov 29, 2016
Jim Urbec
sevierville, TN
Jim Urbec   sevierville, TN
The good news and the bad news

My son and where out here yesterday (16oct16). GPS coords on previous comments are spot on.

there was a fair amount of bushwhacking to get to the base of the wall. pretty steep terrain.

I wrapped a piece of red webbing around tree at crossing.

THE BAD NEWS - DO NOT PARK AT THE BOULDERS!!!! THERE IS STILL A HIGH RISK OF VANDALISM AND BURGULARY. How do I know? My jeep window got smashed with a rock and glove box and center console got ripped open, all for a 10 y/o ipod.... the deputy that responded said that this was the 2nd one in two weeks.

So if you want to climb there my advice: talk to someone who lives at the intersection of Shelton Hollow ln and see if you can park at their house and walk the extra .5 mile. Offer the home owner 10 bucks, what ever, but you are assuming a high amount of risk parking at trail head. there are also a bunch of homeless encamped just off the trail.

This was the only dark spot on an otherwise awesome day of climbing with my son. our first multi-pitch climb at that. Oct 17, 2016
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
Yes, the black plastic bag wrapped around the tree is no longer there. From the main trail from the parking lot, after about 100 yards, look to your right and you will begin to see glimpses of the lower wall. Start looking across the creek for the trail that leads to the main wall climbing area, it's faint, but visible. There may or may not be cairns on both side of the creek to mark approach trail. Jun 23, 2014
EthanC  
Tried to find this today. If you get to the wooden bridge, you've gone too far, but you will end up on top of a mountain. I did not see the black plastic bag and so didn't find the wall. I'll have to try again in the future. Jun 2, 2014
EthanC  
Before heading there, did some effort trying to decipher the instructions above and comments below so I wouldn't waste time getting lost. I'm fairly confident the GPS coordinates of the parking lot are

36.325270, -84.224271 Jun 2, 2014
khowe
Knoxville, TN
khowe   Knoxville, TN
As for directions, the trail that leads across the creek to the cliff-line is approximately 200 yards past the parking lot. There is no longer a tree with a black plastic bag wrapped around it, now there is a cairn next to said tree now. Take that trail up a steep slope until you hit the first cliff-line, which is what the DCA calls the "lower wall." If you keep scrambling up, you will walk directly into the Main Flake (North Face), with the South Face (The Alley) on your right. I took a few photos of the parking area and creek crossing to help.

  • Best as a winter destination. In the warm months, this place is a jungle, top-outs are very exposed to the sun, and not to mention the presence of bees on some routes (Lucy in the Sky).

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Aug 25, 2013
Jeff Thilking
Lynchburg, VA
Jeff Thilking   Lynchburg, VA
Finally headed up to this crag after over a year of beta hunting. Honestly I was mostly worried about some chump tossing a rock through my windshield, as I have read more than one vandalism warning. No issues, easy to find, right on the Cumberland Trail. Parking is limited, room for maybe 6-8 trucks. 10 minute approach to moderate creek crossing, then a steep but short trail to the base. Trail marked by white blazes until creek crossing, then marked with black plastic on trees. Not sure what routes are what yet, was able to climb 2 lines, one free and one with gear. Very scenic, exposed. I'm guessing this will be a bushwacking nightmare in the summer, mountain laurel already growing like mad.
Mar 10, 2013
Are there any bouldering areas around as well? Apr 2, 2012
Cleveland Wilson
Villa Hills, KY
Cleveland Wilson   Villa Hills, KY
Does anyone know how wet these routes stay after rain? Mar 16, 2012
Tim87  
I'm new to the area, and I've been up here a few times. I'm wondering if anyone is developing the area or has an updated topo? Nov 5, 2011
Baikenbitz
LaFollette/Jacksboro, TN
Baikenbitz   LaFollette/Jacksboro, TN
Its not as bad as it used to be, but would still make sure to take or hide any valuables. May 5, 2010
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
Nice to see Devil's Racetrack up here. How is the vandalism/burglary these days? May 3, 2010

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