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The Helmet

Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 5 - Windy Ridge

Description

A fun little crag with some unusual routes. Mt Lemmons's answer to the Frog Prince area at Datil.

Easy to see as you drive up the Mt Lemmon Highway. It looks like a helmet sitting up on the slope in front of you as you drive past Col. Birdseye.

Morning shade.

The crag is west-facing with a vertical face on the left, and a shallow cave on the right.

It's a good idea to check the nuts on chain-draw hangers frequently. Let me know if any are loose.

Not a big deal in our dry climate, but FWIW this crag is totally stainless steel.

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There is some confusion (my fault) about route naming in the cave:

Chain Gang - the name EFR gave to the roof chains.

No Climb For Old Men = El Torito start + Chain Gang
Freeloader = Dwarf Toss start + Chain Gang

Getting There

Park just down-road from the Window. Same as for Middle Earth. I'll post a map. 10 min approach.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
● The Adventures of Nad and Huck
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
● Brain Bucket
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Ain't My First Rodeo
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
● Danny Likes Men
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
● Critical Mass
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● Tony's Route
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
● Mr. Clean
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
● El Torito
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
● No Climb For Old Men
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
● Dwarf Toss
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 2
● Freeloader
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
● The Crossing
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
● Demolition Derby
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
● Pregnant Pause
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Adventures of Nad and Huck
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Brain Bucket
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Ain't My First Rodeo
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Danny Likes Men
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Critical Mass
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Tony's Route
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Mr. Clean
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● El Torito
 14
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● No Climb For Old Men
 4
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
● Dwarf Toss
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Freeloader
 2
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
● The Crossing
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Demolition Derby
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Pregnant Pause
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Old dog.....same trick...<br> <br> Snapped by Vince as he was scouting a new route.
[Hide Photo] Old dog.....same trick... Snapped by Vince as he was scouting a new route.
VB...nappin' on the ledge.
[Hide Photo] VB...nappin' on the ledge.
Lying down in cave, this is the view...
[Hide Photo] Lying down in cave, this is the view...
The cave routes. There is a line of exploratory hangers above the "P" in "Project" that don't really go anywhere yet. DToss + Chain Gang = Freeloader
[Hide Photo] The cave routes. There is a line of exploratory hangers above the "P" in "Project" that don't really go anywhere yet. DToss + Chain Gang = Freeloader
It's pretty easy to get from The Helmet to Middle Earth by contouring directly between them.
[Hide Photo] It's pretty easy to get from The Helmet to Middle Earth by contouring directly between them.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
[Hide Comment] Although some people complain about the choss, I really like this area. Super steep climbing on mostly good rock, beautiful views and fun exposure. I only wish the cave was much, much bigger with more and longer routes. Big thanks to the developers, as I can only imagine how much effort went into cleaning and bolting these routes!

More beta for the approach: Head up the same gully as you take for Middle Earth. Near the top of the ridgeline, look for a trail the heads a little left (Middle Earth trail heads off to the right). Follow the trail to top of ridge, then down to Helmet. May 5, 2010
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
[Hide Comment] My understanding of the routes from left to right:

Vertical Routes
~~~
Adventures of Nad & Huck 9
Brain Bucket 10b/c
Ain't My First Rodeo 11a
Danny Likes Men 10d
Critical Mass 11b
Tony's Route 11b/c (Shares first 3 bolts w/ Critical Mass)
Mr Clean 10d

Cave Routes
~~~
El Torito 12a/b
Dwarf Toss 12c
Freeloader 13a (Dwarf Toss + Chain Gang Extension)
The Crossing 12b
Demolition Derby 12a/b Jun 5, 2011