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Gemstone Gully
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rock
> 10-Pine Creek Canyon
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The Gemstone Gully is a promnient gully located on the east face of Bridge Mountain. The name Gemstone is a play on words, Jen Stone was involved in the first Ascent of the Gemstone route. The Gemstone Gully house's at least 2 quality routes; Fear and Loathing and Gemstone.
Getting There
The approach for Gemstone Gully actually goes up a Spur ridge and then a side gully to the North. It involves some scranbling and some Bushwacking. Once you reach the notch between the approach gully and the Gemstone gully proper; you will go up or down Gemstone gully to get to the individual routes. See the pictures for more info on the approach.
Two options exsist to descend from the upper reachs of the Gemstone Gully. Option #1 is to retrace your approach. Option #2 is to descend the Gemstone Gully. To descend the Gemstone Gully scramble down and do several rappells from trees. The longest of which currently requires 2 ropes, but could be done with a single 70M and not to much trickery. The long rappell is off a tree on the left(climbers) side of the large dry water fall in the middle of the gully. It is slightly exposed getting to the tree.
Routes from Left to Right
Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Fear and Loathing
|
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
●
Gemstone
|
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
●
Tri-Burro Bridge
|
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trad 5 pitches
|
●
Blue Feathers
|
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
[Hide Photo] Redline shows the approach up the Spur Ridge then traverse over to the approach gully. Photo by Josh Thompson
[Hide Photo] The long Rappel descend teh Gemstone gully.
[Hide Photo] Redline shows the approach up the Spur Ridge then traverse over to the approach gully.
[Hide Photo] Redline shows the Gemstone Gully.
Some notes on approaching (and de-proaching) Fear and Loathing and Gemstone:
Josh Thompson has posted a good photo of the approach gully on the Fear and Loathing route page. Note that to access the approach gully, one must climb up the main wash past it slightly, then traverse back left across some ribs of pink rock to get into the bottom of the approach gully as pictured. This is usually well-cairned.
Once at the notch that is the approach gully-Gemstone Gully saddle, you can either descend down (through a cool varnished corridor) to Gemstone, or traverse and ascend to the start of Fear and Loathing. If you are only doing Fear and Loathing, I recommend exiting the way you came. If you decide to do Gemstone afterwards, consider exiting the way you came but, alternatively, you can descend via the Gemstone Gully. Doing so involves some scrambling, a couple raps, and a touch of bushwhacking: Initially you will follow the center of the gully until becoming cliffed-out at a dry pour-over. A 35 meter rappel from a small pine tree on the (skier's) right side of the cliff (use care reaching this tree) will get you to a ledge, and then another short rap off a scrub oak will get you to the bottom of the cliff. More scrambling, a touch of bushwhacking, and 2 more short rappels will deposit you at the bottom of the Gemstone Gully. Dec 6, 2016