PRINT: Climbing in Diamond Head Bouldering, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Diamond Head Bouldering

Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Eldorado Canyon Bould…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Diamond Head is a secluded Eldo Crag, and a good choice for those in search of solitude. Even on the busiest weekends, this crag is generally deserted.

There is at least one decent boulder near the Diamond Head formation, cleverly known as the Diamond Head Boulder. This boulder is located directly below the excellent 5.12 Shibumi, which climbs the western aspect of Diamond Head. There are two worthwhile arete climbs on this boulder. The boulder is in the trees, so tends to be shady most of the time.

Getting There

From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you pass a bus-sized boulder on the right side of the trail, and then about 40 feet later, a sharp left-bend in the trail. Some half-way between the boulder and the bend, a trail begins up the hill. This is almost, but not quite directly below Diamond Head, it is slightly east, still. Follow the trail up the hill and to the east side of a ridge of rock, then Sramble uphil over talus to reach a point just east of the base of Diamond head. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) up and down from Diamond head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.

Routes from Left to Right

V3-4 6A+ 1 ● DH Boulder Left Arete Boulder
V4 6B 1 ● DH Center Boulder
V0- 4- 1 ● DH Boulder Right Arete Boulder

● DH Boulder Left Arete

V3-4 6A+ Boulder

● DH Center

V4 6B Boulder

● DH Boulder Right Arete

V0- 4- Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

DH Boulder Right Arete.