Elevation: 5,999 ft
GPS: 39.93, -105.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 212,169 total · 1,667/month
Shared By: Chip Phillips on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: ECSP is surrounded by private property parcels, OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" and railroad tracks. Many of the outlying areas surrounding ECSP have approaches that can bring these issues into play. Details

Description

Eldorado Canyon State Park is an iconic destination for domestic and international climbers alike who wish to test themselves on standard-setting multi-pitch routes established in the infancy of free climbing in America. Of course, ECSP has quietly developed a lesser-appreciated reputation as an immense bouldering resource too, with bulletproof polished sandstone and some quiet out-of-the-way spots to pull down on some of the nicest rock on the Front Range. ECSP has one of the highest concentrations of quality lines on the Front Range, as it's sometimes-polished rock lends itself to purer and more obvious lines than the more abundant sandstone of the Flatirons, Flagstaff, Sanitas, Carter Lake, etc. If you're familiar with the Millenium Boulder in Matthew Winters Open Space Park near Morrison, its the same stone. If your familiar with Rotary Park on the shores of Horsetooth Reservoir, the rock is of similar quality and some of it is better.

Essentially everyone who knows anything about bouldering is aware of some of ECSP's historic "king lines", e.g., John Sherman's Germ Free Adolescence, Steve Mammen's Never Say Never and many have heard stories of Dave Graham's confounding testpiece Suspension of Disbelief, just to name a few. ECSP is an incredible resource at all the Vermin grades and the wealth of bouldering opportunities that exist in and around the ECSP are far from tapped out ... even in 2010. If you have a willingness to hike far enough, new lines are waiting.

The general sentiment I've heard expressed by my fellow boulderers is that they want the bouldering experience in around ECSP to remain an exploratory one with some of the adventure feel that areas that have been fully covered by guidebooks lack. That said, a number of well-known and well-traveled boulders are already on the site. The administrators asked me to prepare this summary page and, now that it's done, they will attempt to move and organize the ECSP boulders already on the site under this Area. For the well-established stuff in or essentially in ECSP proper, e.g., the East Draw, the inner canyon boulders, the roadside boulders, West World, the stuff located within a stone's throw of the Eldorado Canyon Trail, as well as the Musicals and the draws that arch to the northeast below the Musicals ... it is my hope that we can organize this stuff fairly quickly so it becomes a useful resource.

At this time and going forward, it will be deemed inappropriate to add problems and boulders to this area located on the front and back of Eldorado Mountain to THIS area. This includes Cloud Nine, anything else on the flanks of Eldorado Mountain and the Mickey Meadows, all of which should be more properly added to the section for Eldorado Mountain, if at all.

Have fun exploring this magical place with tons of fascinating history made by interesting characters. When exploring the outlying areas, you will inevitably come across obvious lines and you won't know who put it up, when they put it up, what it's called or graded. Nevermind all that crap, just enjoy yourself!

Getting There

From Denver, head N on I-25 to US 36, go to the CO Hwy 170 exit in Lousiville/Superior. Follow it as it curves around a new shopping complex and becomes Marshall Mesa Road, and continue 10 miles or so crossing over CO Hwy 93 to the town of Eldorado Springs where you enter to the state park.

From Boulder, take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South until you get to the first stop light after leaving Boulder. This is Eldorado Springs Dr. Take this West until you hit the town. The park entrance is at the end of the dirt road into town. Pay entry fee per vehicle to park or walk-in for less. You WILL be ticketed if you park in undesignated spots outside of the park.... The Eldorado Springs bottling company is right off the road to the park. You used to be able to get a free fill-up on your water bottle, but not anymore.

126 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Canyon Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 107
Northeast Corner
Boulder
V1- 5-
 50
Southeast Slab
Boulder
V1 5
 99
North Dihedral
Boulder
V1 5
 41
North Reach
Boulder
V2 5+ PG13
 39
Gill Face
Boulder
V3 6A
 20
Eggman
Boulder
V3 6A
 41
The Buddha Belly
Boulder
V4 6B
 31
Milton
Boulder
V4 6B R
 34
Eastern Priest
Boulder
V4-5 6B+ R
 16
Horan's Highball
Boulder
V5 6C
 38
Germ Free Adolescence
Boulder
V6- 7A
 58
Horan Face
Boulder
V6 7A
 41
Pig Dog
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 17
Germ Free Adolescent SDS
Boulder
V8 7B
 84
Resonated
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northeast Corner Gill Boulder
 107
V0 4 Boulder
Southeast Slab Gill Boulder
 50
V1- 5- Boulder
North Dihedral Gill Boulder
 99
V1 5 Boulder
North Reach Gill Boulder
 41
V1 5 Boulder
Gill Face Gill Boulder
 39
V2 5+ PG13 Boulder
Eggman Musical Boulder… > E Egg
 20
V3 6A Boulder
The Buddha Belly Freight Train Boulder
 41
V3 6A Boulder
Milton Milton Boulder
 31
V4 6B Boulder
Eastern Priest River Block
 34
V4 6B R Boulder
Horan's Highball Water Rock
 16
V4-5 6B+ R Boulder
Germ Free Adolescence W World > Germ Free Boulder
 38
V5 6C Boulder
Horan Face Gill Boulder
 58
V6- 7A Boulder
Pig Dog E Draw > Center Ring Wall
 41
V6 7A Boulder
Germ Free Adolescent SDS W World > Germ Free Boulder
 17
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Resonated Water Rock
 84
V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Eldorado Canyon Bouldering »

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