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Areas in Eldorado Canyon Bouldering

Accordion Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Beach Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Blocks Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Crank Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Creek Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Diamond Head Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
East Draw 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Edge Blocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Freight Train Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Fringe Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gill Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Hip Hop Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Hobo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Horn Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mile Stone 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Milton Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mitten Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Peanuts Pile 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Punk Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pyramid Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Redgarden Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
River Block 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Riverside Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Splish Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Water Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Wave Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
West Ridge Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
West World 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description

Eldorado Canyon State Park is an iconic destination for domestic and international climbers alike who wish to test themselves on standard-setting multi-pitch routes established in the infancy of free climbing in America. Of course, ECSP has quietly developed a lesser-appreciated reputation as an immense bouldering resource too, with bulletproof polished sandstone and some quiet out-of-the-way spots to pull down on some of the nicest rock on the Front Range. ECSP has one of the highest concentrations of quality lines on the Front Range, as it's sometimes-polished rock lends itself to purer and more obvious lines than the more abundant sandstone of the Flatirons, Flagstaff, Sanitas, Carter Lake, etc. If you're familiar with the Millenium Boulder in Matthew Winters Open Space Park near Morrison, its the same stone. If your familiar with Rotary Park on the shores of Horsetooth Reservoir, the rock is of similar quality and some of it is better.

Essentially everyone who knows anything about bouldering is aware of some of ECSP's historic "king lines", e.g., John Sherman's Germ Free Adolescence, Steve Mammen's Never Say Never and many have heard stories of Dave Graham's confounding testpiece Suspension of Disbelief, just to name a few. ECSP is an incredible resource at all the Vermin grades and the wealth of bouldering opportunities that exist in and around the ECSP are far from tapped out ... even in 2010. If you have a willingness to hike far enough, new lines are waiting.

The general sentiment I've heard expressed by my fellow boulderers is that they want the bouldering experience in around ECSP to remain an exploratory one with some of the adventure feel that areas that have been fully covered by guidebooks lack. That said, a number of well-known and well-traveled boulders are already on the site. The administrators asked me to prepare this summary page and, now that it's done, they will attempt to move and organize the ECSP boulders already on the site under this Area. For the well-established stuff in or essentially in ECSP proper, e.g., the East Draw, the inner canyon boulders, the roadside boulders, West World, the stuff located within a stone's throw of the Eldorado Canyon Trail, as well as the Musicals and the draws that arch to the northeast below the Musicals ... it is my hope that we can organize this stuff fairly quickly so it becomes a useful resource.

At this time and going forward, it will be deemed inappropriate to add problems and boulders to this area located on the front and back of Eldorado Mountain to THIS area. This includes Cloud Nine, anything else on the flanks of Eldorado Mountain and the Mickey Meadows, all of which should be more properly added to the section for Eldorado Mountain, if at all.

Have fun exploring this magical place with tons of fascinating history made by interesting characters. When exploring the outlying areas, you will inevitably come across obvious lines and you won't know who put it up, when they put it up, what it's called or graded. Nevermind all that crap, just enjoy yourself!
ECSP is surrounded by private property parcels, OSMP-managed "Natural Areas" and railroad tracks. Many of the outlying areas surrounding ECSP have approaches that can bring these issues into play. Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

From Denver, head N on I-25 to US 36, go to the CO Hwy 170 exit in Lousiville/Superior. Follow it as it curves around a new shopping complex and becomes Marshall Mesa Road, and continue 10 miles or so crossing over CO Hwy 93 to the town of Eldorado Springs where you enter to the state park.

From Boulder, take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South until you get to the first stop light after leaving Boulder. This is Eldorado Springs Dr. Take this West until you hit the town. The park entrance is at the end of the dirt road into town. Pay entry fee per vehicle to park or walk-in for less. You WILL be ticketed if you park in undesignated spots outside of the park.... The Eldorado Springs bottling company is right off the road to the park. You used to be able to get a free fill-up on your water bottle, but not anymore.

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eldorado Canyon Bouldering

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Does anyone know the name of the climb on the right of the boulder across the road from the Milton Boulder?
Jul 15, 2014
bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
The bouldering in Eldorado Canyon can't be beat, get the guide, Best of Boulder Bouldering, or Bouldering Colorado, the originals. Here is author Bob Horan on his static version of Never Say Never, V11.
Never Say Never from bob horan on Vimeo. Mar 14, 2014
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Mr. Dodge, The Grinch is a variation to the Grouch ... see someone like jaeger's 8a.nu card for specifics.

peace Jun 29, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Peter, to my knowledge that is The Grinch on the Gill Boulder, but I could be wrong. Looks like it though. Jun 24, 2013
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
Where is the route called "The Grouch" seen in this video? vimeo.com/10156734 Jun 24, 2013
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Helldorado, I think that a more positive approach would be to figure out what the status on the ground actually is first. Mike McHugh and I have emailed about this already and may be working with the Access Fund, The BCC, and the FCC on what to do next.

Comments about the house of the possible landowner or characterizing the boulderer who was asked to leave as a gym rat only obscure the central issue which is whether climbers can visit these boulders. In the Flatirons, everything is on public land and the genie left the bottle a long long time ago. Mar 14, 2011
Helldorado
Boulder, CO
Helldorado   Boulder, CO
I wasn't aware how much of this stuff was on private property. I'm guessing the landowner in question has the ridiculously huge red mansion past the visitor center. It's not surprising that a routesetter was told to leave, as gym rats are not known to be discrete or respectful when bouldering outdoors.

Anyways, I don't see any good reason to publicize this sensitive area, some of the more popular boulders are being severely trashed by ignoramuses. It would be best just to delete the bouldering section and keep these blocks off the radar, away from the prying eyes of the public. Peter, how have you contributed to Eldowest bouldering, aside from publicizing it on you blog and what place do you have in this conversation? Mar 14, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
That exploration aspect of bouldering in Eldo West may have hit a bump in the road. A boulderer was recently escorted out of the vicinity of Midnight Frightening after being informed that this was private property. Mar 11, 2011
Helldorado
Boulder, CO
Helldorado   Boulder, CO
Keep Eldo bouldering free. It's much better off without names, grades and directions. May 9, 2010
Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
Awesome job, Chip! Thanks for the info.

Can't wait to do a little bouldering there...and to climb some trad as well. Apr 15, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Many thanks to Chip for getting this page started! If anybody has ideas on how to better organize the boulders on this page, please contact myself or Chip. Apr 15, 2010

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