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Routes in Norwich Ledge

Bazinga! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Saturdays T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parmotrema Arnoldii T WI5-6 M7+ A0 PG13
Route to Glory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stritch Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Urushiol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Walt's Crawlers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 1,217 ft
GPS: 46.681, -89.3 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Brandon Snyder on Mar 28, 2010
Admins: jon jugenheimer, Paul Peppin
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Description

Norwich Ledge is no doubt the largest cliff in the state. The wall ranges from 100 to 300 feet tall and is about a half mile wide. The climbing is dirty from lack of use and there are sections of loose rock. This area could become a developed some day, but for now I would call it adventure climbing.

Getting There

The ledge is located outside of Bergland MI in the western UP. Drive north from the town of Bergland on Hwy 64 to Old 64. Turn east on Old 64 and drive 4 miles to the second right turn on Old 64. Turn right and drive aprox. 2 more miles to the end of the gravel road and a parking area for 2-4 cars.

(For winter access, when Old 64 takes a 90 deg left turn at 1 mile from the junction, go 50 feet further and take the RR tracks to the left. Ski another 3 miles on the tracks to the base of the cliff)

Across the road there is a dirt path to the top of the cliff, witch is about a mile walk.

From the top of the cliff, head slightly down and far left to the rappel line if you are looking for the fastest and easiest way to the bottom. One 60 M rap will take you to the dirt, or two raps, both less than 30M will also work. Both rappels are bolted. The top rap has two bolts, the mid station currently has only one bolt.

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carter
Minneapolis, MN
carter   Minneapolis, MN
Rappel line is located on the Eastern end of the cliff at 46.655936, -89.511530. There is a nice two bolt anchor. You can get to the ground with a full 60m rappel. There is a single bolt anchor half way down, but Id recommend just bringing two ropes or fixing a single line. Sep 8, 2017
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
I climbed Book of Saturdays in Feb, 2016. I didn't find any cams, but did find a few nuts in the roof on the cave belay pitch, I left them there as they were frozen in place. In winter, the cave has some ice in it to take screws. WAY safer than in the summer as that rock is complete shit. May 22, 2016
Again, Kevin and I would love that gear back!
Better coordinates would be:

The start of the trail - ( 46.621386, -89.552523 )
The Actual Wall - ( 46.659297, -89.502905 )

I'd recommend that you skip the belay in the cave and continue farther to the climbers left to the start of pitch 4 and belay from there instead. WAYYYYY more protectable from there.

Totally doable with a rack of #.75, #.75, #1, #1, #2, #2, and a #3 with about two sets of nuts and you could most likely make due with less. Mar 10, 2016
climbing2man
Marquette, Mi
climbing2man   Marquette, Mi
Friday October 23rd, Myself and 2 others bailed off of pitch 4. Left a #1 camalot and a couple nuts. Started down pouring when about to start pitch 4 and decided to bail. If anyone gets that gear I would love to get it back, wont climb on it but would be cool memorabilia to have. Oct 25, 2015
In recent past have done Book of Saturdays. Highly vegetated at this stage, with the crux being crawling into the belay cave where all the holds are moveable....and removable.

Yesterday did a two pitch 5.7 with Burt Lindquist that we call "Walt's Crawlers" after the eponymous sign at the gas stations at Bergland and Kenton Michigan. This line lies about 500' south of Book of Saturdays but is more exactly located by its exit directly at the overlook on the North Country Trail.

Also, at this point the crag may as well be called Norwich Ledge, since the real Norwich Mine is generally crap rock, but better distinguished by the short ice line that forms down a mine shaft on its west flank late in the year. Oct 11, 2015
Ron Jon
Boyne City, MI
Ron Jon   Boyne City, MI
Has there been anymore development in this area in the past couple of years? Any sport routes? Its off the beaten path and hard to get to, which makes sense that there is not many routes here. But it would be awesome to develop the area. There is a ton of rock here, dont know about the rights/access, but something to take advantage of. Let me know. Thanks. Jul 1, 2013
L.Walton
Arvada, CO
L.Walton   Arvada, CO
Props to those that put this up. My girlfriend and I tried the BOS route, but never found the actual line. Instead I lead some interesting 5.11ish route, which we bailed on due to nerves. We hiked in on the NCT, then got off trail (around the far left side of your cliff pic) and eventually made our way down the cliff face and then traversed along the base to what we thought was the climb. Feb 26, 2012
Also there are bolts on the far climbers right of the cliff that you can use to rap down to the base. Two guys were out there bolting today in that area, so maybe a new routes going up! Jun 25, 2011
Anyone know how to get there via the NCT shortcut? We took the rail tracks from the corner of old 64 and that was pretty long. Climbed a variation of the Book of Saturdays. Calling it "The Route to Glory". 5.8 might be a bit of a sand bag on the grade for the top two pitches. Vegetation makes the whole thing very hard, but the pro can be pretty bomber. The second (third on Book of Saturdays) can be pretty sketch. Jun 25, 2011
L.Walton
Arvada, CO
L.Walton   Arvada, CO
Any chance you could give a bit more of a description on how to get to Norwich Ledge? A pin-point on google maps would be ideal. Thanks for posting. I'll try to add more pics if I can find it. May 8, 2011
ChristopherThies
Walworth County, WI
ChristopherThies   Walworth County, WI
Excellent find/beta. Thanks - to you (& your crew) - for posting this crag.

I've never been there, but I think that this cliff (in the Trap Hills) may be more commonly referred to as either 'The Hack Site' or 'Hack Site Cliff'. I found a link to the reference/use of these names here:
books.google.com/books?id=C…

'Norwich Ledge' [an old 1800's mining locale, spelled with an 'h'] is located about 5 miles East of 'Hack Site (Cliff)'. The first climbing mention of 'Norwich Ledge' I've found is Alan Bagg's "50 Short Climbs in the Midwest" (1978). Norwich Ledge is definately longer - it stretches out for about 5 miles. May 21, 2010

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