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Routes in Illiniza Sur

Normal Route AI3-4 Steep Snow
Elevation: 17,268 ft
GPS: -0.664, -78.716 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,297 total, 14/month
Shared By: Eric Rich on Mar 17, 2010
Admins: Tony Yeary

Description

Illiniza Sur is an alpine snow/ice climb in an excellent setting. It neighboors the nearby Illiniza North, a much easier and less technical climb.
Illiniza North and South serve as good acclimitazation climbs for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

The conditions on the normal route, I am told, vary wildly. Yossi Brain's guidebook gives 8 hours roundtrip from the hut to the summit and back. This is when the glacier and mountain has snow cover. It took us nearly 16 hours to complete the climb, because the entire route was essentially an ice climb, which necessitated down-climbing as well, rather than what would have been much easier plunge stepping.
Check with local sources/guides before climbing.



Getting There

Fly to Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. From there or in advance it is easy to arrange transport using various outfitters or guide services.
You can also rent a car and drive yourself; most guidebooks have directions on how to get to the trailhead.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Illiniza Sur

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI3-4 Steep Snow
Normal Route
Ice, Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Normal Route AI3-4 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
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