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Routes in Mt. Olympus

Argus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
B.E.M. (Booger Eating Moron) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Boiler Room S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hercules S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Incoming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mars S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medusa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pluto S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up And Over Red S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Venus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 2,700 ft
GPS: 34.118, -118.938 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,067 total · 42/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Feb 27, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Mount Olympus is one of several crags in the Santa Monica Mountains that feature a volcanic tuff or Brecchia containing cobbles that protrude from the surface to provide amazing hand and foot holds. The routes of Mt.Olympus may be a bit intimidating as the bolts are more widely spaced than most sport routes and appear harder than their grades, but be assured that many of the cobbles have positive tops or hidden holds between the cobbles.

Getting There

From the Sandstone Peak parking area, follow the steep fire road for 0.3 miles until you reach the Mishe Mokwa connector trail on your right. Continue on the main fire road to Sandstone Peak. From here continue on the fire road around a sharp right turn and a steep downhill section. Alternately, at this point there is a trail that leaves the fire road around the left end of the woooden railing. Continue straight ahead on the fire road until the obvious cobbled tower can be seen downhill and left of the fire road. This is Mt. Olympus.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Olympus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medusa
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Medusa 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
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Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
As yomamasokafka has indicated there is a sharp right turn in the fire road in the vicinity of Sandstone Peak, but it is possible to save some time by utilizing a faint trail that leaves the fire road, to the left, at the wooden railing in the photo.

Dec 30, 2015
yomamasokafka
Los Angeles, CA
yomamasokafka   Los Angeles, CA
Two important notes about Mt. Olympus after trekking there this weekend:

One is that the guide directions are slightly wrong. The sharp turn of the trail is not a left but a RIGHT, and in fact the directions are a bit confusing. Note that getting there is about a 1.8 to 2 mile hike in, almost completely on the main trail. Head past Sandstone peak and just keep going along the main trail. Seeing a picture of the tower makes finding it very easy as it is unique and not able to be missed on your left hand side once in view.

The second is a personal advisement to other climbers not familiar with this area. While the volcanic cobbled substrate and very hard sand stone makes this feature relatively unique in the Santa Monica mountains. It should be noted that this area has longer run out sections between bolts than many other areas around L.A.. Many of the bolts, while not spinning are rusted, and the rap stations are all rusty hooks without an open/shut. This is not meant as a deterrent, however I personally was not to thrilled by the prospect of taking a fall on any of these routes.

as an aside; the view can't be beaten as a scramble to the top of Mt. Olympus is a breathtaking vista. Dec 30, 2013

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