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Routes in The Lookout

Big Brother S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Central Intelligence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conspiracy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Contact S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double Agent S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Espionage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eye to the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Eye S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Agenda S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incognito S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Informer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
L.A. Confidential S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Octopussy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Protocol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussy Galore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spy Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Secret S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Description

The Lookout is a nice little crag featuring good rock, a short approach and views of the Pacific Ocean. A fun and convenient alternative to Echo Cliffs or Malibu Creek State Park. The crag consists of a collection of huge volcanic conglomerate or Brecchia blocks. The three largest blocks host 17 routes from 5.10a to 5.13c and has something for everyone. The south face of the formation nearest Yerba Buena Road has been posted and closed to climbing by the National Park Service.
Parking / Private Property Details

Getting There

Approximately two miles up Little Sycamore Canyon/Yerba Buena Rd. from Mulholland Dr. there is a small development of homes at a sharp left turn in the road. Park in the pullout on the south side of the road, and cross the street. To the right of the houses, you'll see a fire road/driveway, to the right of which is a break in the bushes. Go through the break in the bushes, and follow the trail up to a boulder. Then turn right onto a faint, somewhat overgrown trail. Follow this for a few minutes across a few rocks until you drop down to the right of the crag.

The crag is visible above the road, on the right, just after Little Sycamore Canyon Road becomes Yerba Buena Road.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Lookout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Christian B
West Hills, California
Christian B   West Hills, California
Went here last week and it was pretty rad. The view is awesome and its really close to the road, but still a demanding 10 min approach. Deff have to bush whack a little bit, but its cool once you get to the spot. I read the comment about spinners and was worried. After getting here and climbing almost all the routes on the main face, there was like 2 spinners, so it would be nice to have them fixed but i thought the climbs were still safe and sick! This place is deff worth checking out at least once. Beware of snakes, too many spots were prime spots for them to hang out in, and by Octopussy I ran into a big black Diamondback. Jul 10, 2016
kipp.fo
Los Angeles, CA
kipp.fo   Los Angeles, CA
BEWARE: SKETCHY BOLTS.

Bottom bolt on "Informer" is spinning-both the bolt and the hanger. Lots of spinners around-climbed every route on the main formation (the 10c/b through the far right 11) and there were multiple spinning hangers and bolts that were half pulled out. Wouldn't want to fall on lots of them-the whole area needs a lot of rebolting attention for safe climbing. Dec 7, 2015
Wil Sterner
Topanga, California
Wil Sterner   Topanga, California
Thanks Benjamin, Good advice. I will ask him, he would know. Nov 26, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Wil....try contacting Devlin Gandy. Try him on Facebook. He will likely have some beta regarding any bouldering in the Santa Monica Mountains. Nov 20, 2012
Wil Sterner
Topanga, California
Wil Sterner   Topanga, California
I am curious about the boulders that appear to surround the formation. Anybody know how climbable those may be? Nov 14, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Some new route development on the southernmost formation at The Lookout that is WAY TOO close to Yerba Buena Road. Previous developers in the area deemed it irresponsible to develop climbs on this formation due to it's proximity to the road. The NPS (yes, the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area is administered by the NPS) has closed this formation to climbing, due to liability and safety concerns related to it's proximity to the road. Ranger James Herbaugh indicates that a rock dropped from the anchors falls on Yerba Buena Road. None of the other formations at The Lookout are affected, but continued development could result in further closures. Presently, signage is affixed to only the southern-most formation (closest to Yerba Buena Roda) and only that formation is closed to climbing. Feb 26, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Currently, the parking area on the south side of the sharp left turn at the small housing development is posted with several NO PARKING signs. Better to park in the large turn out on the left ~40 yds west of the turn. Alternately, there is a small turn out 0.25 mi. before the turn where Little Sycamore Canyon Road becomes Yerba Buena Rd. Jan 3, 2012
Great little crag. Fun routes, with something for every one. Short but epic hike. Trail is over grown. There are some classic climbs here. From slabby to slightly overhanging, and bulges. Its all here from easy to hard. And very little hiking Aug 13, 2010

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