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Routes in Grimauld Place

Adorable Miss Granger, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aragog's Lair T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beyond the Veil T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boy Who Lived, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burrow, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diffindo T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fawkes From the Ashes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight of the Phoenix T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ginny's Secret T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parting of the Ways T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Secret Keeper, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 744 ft
GPS: 43.064, -71.54 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Yup... Its a harry potter theme, deal with it, haha...This hidden micro crag is located in the back woods of Goffstown NH... The existing routes were put up by Lee Hansche and Jakob Montoya starting in the spring of 2007... Others may have climbed here in the past but there was no sign of any activity... Developement was done without any bolts and it should stay that way... There are great trees for setting up top ropes and most of the routes put up so far have been led either ground up or in a headpoint style using sometimes tricky, suspect or wide spread trad gear.... A few of the moderate routes host pretty good gear placements...
Lots of loose rock was cleaned from the steeper routes and what is left for loose stuff is pretty well stuck... You should however be careful yarding on anything thats not super solid...
We have been unable to figure out who owns the land the cliffs are on so care should be taken not to upset land owners and respect should be the rule when meeting people in these woods... I don't climb here too often but i would be bummed if the cliff was closed to climbing since its literally 1 mile from my house...

Getting There

Directions- the crag is found by taking east dunbarton rd. to montelona rd. in goffstown for a mile or two to a powerline area with a small cliff visible from the road... park well off the road just before the powerline area... from the parking spot hike in to the woods and at an off road trail head right and hike for 5-10 minutes until you see the crag on your left... there are a few cliffs but the gem, and the only one we have climbed on is the last one down... it has a steep overhang in the middle with less severe angles on either side...

Update: I heard there was some confusion as to which off road path to take. You do not want the one that follows the power line. The one you want is to your right if you are facing the small cliff at the road and it runs parallel to the road for a short way in to the woods before heading up hill. I don't enter the path from the power line, I just walk up in to the woods to the right of the power line and it is easy to pick up the ATV path. Have fun out there!

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Yes there is a path up top and plenty of trees for anchors . Bring some long lengths if cord or webbing 25' or so for the anchor as the tree are set back from the edge Jul 29, 2017
I am going to be heading here today. I climb sport but have no Trad gear. IS it possible to hike around to set up a top rope? Jul 21, 2017
I bushwack through the woods its about a 5 MIN walk, walk along the hill keeping it on your left you will pass a couple small cliffs before you get to Grimauld .
Bring a brush and helmet with you as it hasn't been climbed much recently.
There is quite a bit of moss, dirt and loose rocks.
Italic Text Jul 9, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Sure jamie I will try to make it more clear. Jun 1, 2017
Jamie Cunningham
Suncook, New Hampshire
Jamie Cunningham   Suncook, New Hampshire
I went out to Grimauld Place today by my self with the intent to rope solo the moderates there. The mosquitos where off the hook, so opted to scope out the cliff so I could keep moving and flail both arms about at will!!

Reading the description from the road I found it to be not clear to understand as to finding the ATV trail. The axis of the power line is a little east of north and the road crosses the power line slightly west of north. The Grimauld crag is about 15-18 minutes East of the road along a well defined ATV trail. The ATV trail begins at the chained trail closer at the south East corner of where the road crosses the power line as you travel north. The best parking is on the north east side of the road crossing. This is where I headed in before I realized that there was no ATV trail on that side. I crossed the power line above the rock outcropping in the power line, and easily seen from the road. I finally connected with the ATV trail.

DO NOT TAKE THE ATV TRACK THAT FOLLOWS THE POWER LINE.

Once past the chain link, the trail runs roughly parallel to the road for about 500' before turning left (East_bearing 80 to 120 degrees). It is a mellow up hill walk. When you get to it, take the left hand fork. After about 12-15 minutes of a slow steady walk keep looking left (north) and you will begin to see the cliff through the trees and up hill of the trail.

Lee or Admin., can you adjust your opening trail description here to reflect my observations here, Thanks!! May 28, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i always thought of those signs being for the powerline area... i dont enter from there but cut through the woods up the road a little... the trails out there are pretty well used and there are other trails in that are not posted... i use this cause its the easiest... like i said im not sure what the deal is with access, i just try to behave while im out there... your call really Oct 18, 2011
Sean T.Bowen
New Boston,NH
Sean T.Bowen   New Boston,NH
Went on an attempted exploration of Grimauld today, near the powerlines, and in front of the fire access path (with chain link) is a NO TRESSPASS SIGN? Lee do you know if this is "NEW" or should I have just walked right past it? Land access as you have stated, and of which I agree (citing Joe English) is precious...I don't want to be the one who places this crag at risk, but that said , would love to see it....any comment or email appreciaited (Sean...from New Boston )! Oct 17, 2011
Jeremy Corson
Northwood, New Hampshire
Jeremy Corson   Northwood, New Hampshire
Not much traffic on this area yet Lee? I guess I will have to be the first out to your new area Lee so I can give you some feed back! Maybe I should head out there tomorrow instead of Pway? May 1, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Jay, as kevin said this is not the same place eman climbs at... the crag he climbs at "doesn't exist" haha this one does :) Feb 27, 2010
Kevin Macartney
Laramie, WY
Kevin Macartney   Laramie, WY
No, this isn't the same cliff that E-Man climbs at. From what lee told me its part of the same band of rock as that cliff though. When I spoke to E-Man last he was still keeping it quiet. Jay, you can send Lee or me a message and we can point you in the right direction if you need a refresher. Feb 26, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Is this the place where E-Man was climbing a few years back? Does it have a big den of porcupines at the base? Or am I thinking of a different cliff? Feb 25, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
winter is good here once the snow melts off the top... it does dry out quick and stay warm due to southern exposure.... Feb 22, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
not sure when i will get there, how is the winter climbing there? Feb 22, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yeah... tell me how it goes or better yet let me know when you will be there since im right down the street... Feb 22, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is cool another cool place to check out when I am home! Feb 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
There is a long history of keeping little crags like this secret (as we did for a few years)... We found however that we don't often use it and no one else did either so we decided to share it... If you do visit Grimauld please do your best to avoid compromising access... Feb 21, 2010

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