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Upper Beach

Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Beach Areas

Description

The Upper Beach is a winter time getaway which faces pretty much due south. Located on the high, tan Coconino band of stone above the Chapel of the Cross, this crag has a handful of clever routes both trad and sport. The rock is very good for Sedona and sports ripple crimps, bomber huecos, deep pockets, and crisp cracks at angles that will surprise you.

Needless to say the views are expansive, though the Chapel and the adjacent neighborhood take off a few points for sure. All in all a fun place to soak up the sun, and have some fun.

Getting There

After reaching the Lower beach, continue hiking south along the base of the cliff to the south end of the wall. Continue around the corner to the east and head up the first steep gully you encounter. Scramble up this loose rock gully to the base of the wall. Most of the routes are to climber’s right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
● Pickpocket
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Co-ed Volleyball
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
● Nurse Ratchet
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Fame and Money
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
● Corona
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 12
● Black Gold
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
● Dangling Monkey
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
● Red Sky
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
● Moon Juice
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Hot Pocket
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
● Go With The Flow
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pickpocket
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Co-ed Volleyball
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Nurse Ratchet
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Fame and Money
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Corona
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Black Gold
 12
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● Dangling Monkey
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
● Red Sky
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
● Moon Juice
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Hot Pocket
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Go With The Flow
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

manny sunning at the beach
[Hide Photo] manny sunning at the beach
James Q Martin on lead, and Seth Dyer belaying. Little warm up tower at the base of the wall. You can clearly see the Church Spires in the background. Upper Beach Area.
[Hide Photo] James Q Martin on lead, and Seth Dyer belaying. Little warm up tower at the base of the wall. You can clearly see the Church Spires in the background. Upper Beach Area.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Will Irwin
Washington, DC
[Hide Comment] I found the approach a little confusing so I dropped a few pins to help others trying to get to upper beach. These pins are google maps links.

goo.gl/maps/vCGpHwysW2mjchnn9
(Pin 1: ^entrance to first gully; scramble up from here)

goo.gl/maps/gtKVpyP6JYPY9fUa6
(^2nd pin - once up the gully, turn right and head toward this pin)

goo.gl/maps/59SLcHy1g95tS2966
(^3rd pin - hike around the wall to your left)

goo.gl/maps/6rAhDbMrp59hCnF98
(^4th pin - mouth of last gully; scramble up and head to the right to upper beach) Dec 23, 2019
Connor Brass
Kansas City, MO
[Hide Comment] ^^^ Thanks for the pins. Is there cell reception in the area or do I need a gps device to use those? Jan 19, 2021
Matteo Serenari
[Hide Comment] Oh fellow traveler, do check the comments on the general beach areas before adventuring into the maze of this approach. Don't be like me! 4 days ago