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The Nursery

Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 2 - Bear Canyon

Description

With a quick approach and lots of moderate climbs, The Nursery is a great crag for an easy day and a place you can take new climbers. As of winter 2025, the routes have been retrobolted making them leadable. If you prefer, you can still toprope most of the routes by hiking to the top of each formation and setting up anchors.

The climbs are bolted safely enough that new leaders should be able to enjoy them without getting too far out of their comfort zone, and if you have a taste for trad there are several routes ranging from 5.5 to low 5.10.

As well as many moderates, there are also a few climbs in the 5.10 range and a stronger climber should be able to have a fun day here as well.

While some of the routes get morning shade, the majority of the area is south facing and will get sun all day so be mindful of the weather. I have found the crag to be most comfortable when the high is below 70 degrees in Tucson.

Each anchor is equipped with steel carabiners for easy lowering, but please bring your own draws for toproping so we can preserve the fixed hardware. Enjoy!

Getting There

Park at either the Green Slabs pullout or the next pullout up the mountain. There is a prominent road cut between these two pullouts, with a guardrail on the west side of the road. At the north end of the guardrail, you will see a few stepstones which mark the beginning of the approach trail. Start hiking up the steep hillside and The Nursery is the very first crag you see.

Approach time is about 5 minutes for an average party.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Nursery from the approach trail.
[Hide Photo] The Nursery from the approach trail.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
[Hide Comment] Thanks for getting this done guys! I can't wait to check this out in the next couple of weeks. If there is a little more work that needs to be done, let me know and I will try and contribute. Feb 2, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] thanks joe! i think the work is mostly done at this point but we'll let you know if anything comes up. some of the routes are chossy right now so i guess in the meantime you could help by climbing them and getting some of that crumbly stuff to come off. =) Feb 4, 2010
Mike Senigo
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Climbed here today with a party of 9. The Teddy Bear Slabs area does not have much room at the base, so big parties should spread out. We had 4 kids with us and a couple new climbers. The area was great for the ability level of the kids and newer climbers. The rock was pretty solid for a new area and nothing bigger than a dime came off. Thanks for the new routes and look forward to more family climbing here. Mar 13, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] glad you liked it. multiple people have mentioned the base could use a little work to be more kid-friendly. i'll see if i can get up there this weekend and clean it up a bit. specifically i think it's all the sharp branches and sticks poking out that are the problem. Mar 31, 2010
[Hide Comment] jon, there's a guy trying to lure children into his car with candy at the base of the crag, too. please make sure to move him. :) Mar 31, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] is this the van?

punditonline.files.wordpres…>

i think it's ok. he seems pretty legit to me. Apr 4, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
[Hide Comment] I saw an Access Fund sticker on the van, so he's alright. Apr 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] HAHAHA!!!! Apr 5, 2010
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] I always say nothing's as expensive as "free". Looking forward to checking these out, I just hope you guys spent more time picking the lines than the names ;) Thanks for putting in the work. Apr 9, 2010
John seJerman
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] would anybody have gps coordinates for the nursery or the parking area? Greatly appreciated!
-John Jan 4, 2011
[Hide Comment] Park at Green slabs parking area (See guide book)

Look across road. Trail starts at the end of the guard rail. Look up, grab rock and throw. You will hit the Nursery rock. Jan 4, 2011
[Hide Comment] I went to Teddy Bear Slabs and Rapunzel Tower earlier today and had the place to myself. Some observations:

1) Location: To make things more exact, the pullout is just after where the road crosses between two rock formations, just before mile marker 10.

2) I was very happy with the climbs on TB and RT. The base of TB is on its way toward kid-friendliness, but isn't there yet. I cleared away a lot of dead bushes and choss, but there's still work to be done. (Also, it seems like "Climber Jumped Over The Roof" starts in a bush.)

3) I was toprope soloing, but had I been toproping I would have been a bit freaked out during the lower about the many sharp ledges on TB and the north side of Rapunzel. Be mindful of this when you climb.

4) I loved the master rap station on TB. Thumb up on the clever idea. Toprope access to Rapunzel involves a pretty (very) sketchy move, however.

5) I'm not sure whether the anchor situation on Traditional Fairytale (RT) has been resolved, but the anchors that I saw on TB and RT looked bomber.

Thanks for opening up this area. The two minute approach time is awesome! Jan 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] Climbed the Nursery May 12, 2012. The area is pretty wooded and the hike is short but real steep. Easy to top rope by climbing the "hey diddle diddle crack in the middle". Happy never after is a great climb and very challenging. Good luck to everyone!
Happily never after
May 13, 2012
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] sorry about the delayed response yair. the anchor hanger on traditional fairytale has not been replaced yet (at least by me). but at least i have a good excuse (laziness). i might get an opportunity in the next couple weeks to fix that, what with the monsoon and cooler weather arriving on the mountain. Jul 2, 2012
[Hide Comment] If you pass mile marker 10 then park at the next pull out to the right (it's right after mile 10) and back track. my friends and I did 'The Golden Stair' this weekend but we had an adventure trying to find The Nursery. For some reason we read somewhere that it was at mile 10.2. anyway happy exploring and climbing guys ! Sep 18, 2012
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] My climbing buddy, after starting at the gym several months ago, decided to bust out and hit some rock, and I thought this would be a good spot to start out top roping, with a wide range of skill levels. And it was a good choice! Rapunzel's Tower in the center is fantastic. The belay area is shaded until 1pm in the summer, has a large clear area at the base and overlooks the view to Tucson. Meanwhile the climbing on Rapunzel's is highly rewarding. The other two rocks are ok. The far rock, Dirty Diaper, has no shade at all on belay, and due to the pronounced overhang on the rock, all the anchor points are a little off the climbing paths and leave you at risk of pendulum. Anchor points here aren't particularly high up either. The first rock face, Teddy Bear Slabs is what it's advertised to be as pretty low intensity slab. I'd imagine the first 6 feet would be difficult for a true novice or child, but the rest is straightforward. Good introduction for us to small overhangs on the eastern face of the rock, and great confidence building. You'll need somebody familiar with rappel to set the anchors, and the belay station is 1 foot of junky trail with no shade at the base, as it quickly turns into brush near the wall. Sep 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] Great job, Jon. Very adequate.

Great crag for beginners that's not far from the road and offers a good amount of exposure! Worth checking out! Feb 25, 2025
[Hide Comment] Super fun exposure for how many easy grades there are. Bolting is pretty friendly, too. Despite the challenging shape of the rock in places, I felt like I was safe. Pretty rare for Mount Lemmon so I'm supper happy to have it. I didn't encounter much choss and the belays were pretty comfortable. Not the best crag on the mountain for chilling, but far from the worst. Mar 8, 2025