Laos
International
> Asia
Description
Laos, or more correctly the Lao Peoples Democratic Republic, may not have the climbing reputation of its neighbor Thailand, but it certainly has its one must-visit crag: Pha Tam Kam, aka "Thakhek" aka "Green Climbers Home".
The country only opened their doors to tourism a little over two decades ago, and likewise the climbing culture is still young, but the potential is there to establish Laos as destination area in the climbing world. The Lao are friendly and energetic opportunists and are more than willing to invite falang onto their lands if it will earn them a buck or a fraction of.
The main body of the country in the north is mountainous and perforated by limestone crags jutting out of the flat rice fields covering the valley floors. The rock is the same white limestone that you'll find around the rest of this part of the continent. Though you can find a variety of styles it's predominantly single-pitch over-hanging sport climbing on tufas and pockets.
The biggest hindrance to the popularity climbing is the weather, which is a fair bit wetter than down south during the season (June Sept) and closes down a lot of areas. Fortunately there are a few established area that are climbable in the pouring rain, which makes it quite comfortable temperature-wise.
There are two other developed climbing areas developed in Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. Vang Vieng is known for being a debaucherous party destination.
Getting There
The capital of Laos, Vientiane, lies on the southern border next to the Thai town Nong Khai and is easily accessible via the Northeastern Train Line from Bangkok. The overnight train is quite comfortable and will drop you off just shy of the border for $20. From Vientiane buses take off all day long for Vang Vieng (3 hours) and Luang Prabang (9 hours). Alternately, if youre doing the climbing circuit in Thailand you can come in through the west from Chiang Mai and get to Luang Prabang, though the bus-ride in is an arduous journey.
Dangers and Annoyances
Laos has most of the basic dangers of Thailand, so if youve read about them you can lose sleep over traveling to Laos as well. If youve been there, well, you know that if you just use your head youll be ok. The medical care in Laos isnt near the quality of that in Thailand, if you are seriously hurt you should look to evacuating to Thailand.
If youve been traveling around S.E.A. youll surely note that the Lao are far more laid back than any of their neighbors. You wont have to deal with the hagglers of Thailand and Vietnam, nor the scam artists of Cambodia. However, the Lao have begun to work on grasping the concept of capitalism, and thus the prices have been skyrocketing as the tourism grows. I usually found that the price drops almost instantly to true market value with a firm stance; take the offer once its fair, dont belabor the issue trying to get another 20 cents knocked off. Ive witnessed this on more than one occasion and it comes off as very rude and insulting.
Be wary of the Lao Lao whisky.
Seasons
Laos has much more of a wet season than Thailand and sees considerable rain from June to September. Although there are places in Vang Vieng that are climbable in the rain your options will be more limited.
On the plus side, Laos being the only land-locked country in South East Asia, you dont have to worry about the corroding SS bolts like in Thailand.
Accommodation, Supplies, and Climbing Needs
Accommodation can still be found reasonably cheap in Laos. They have picked up on the rising tourism and are trying their best to capitalize on it, but theyre still a bit new to the art. I had a hotel in Luang Prabang quote me $80 US a night, so I walked across the street, down a little alley and found a nice guest house for 50,000 kip ($6). The prices are far less outrages in Vang Vieng.
Supplies can be picked up at any market store scattered across the streets. ATMs are widely accessible, however see warning in Vang Vieng section.
Green Discovery is a corporate outdoors company and will gladly take herds of noobs to the local cliff and pull them up topropes for a modest fee. They have shops in Vientiane, Vang Vieng, and Luang Prabang. In Vang Vieng, where the bulk of the climbing is located, I recommend searching out Adams Rock Climbing School for supplies of a guide. Adam is a climber, not just a corporate top rope, and can set you up with whatever you need.
Guidebooks
There are electronic guides easily available on the net, most notably a three-part guide by Volker Schöffl. I'll refrain from posting links as they change often.
The Thailand Climbing Guide by Sam Lightner Jr also has a section in the back on Laos.
The best option is to just pick up a printed copy of the guide from Adam in Vang Vieng. The $5 you spend goes towards bolting.
[Hide Photo] Sunset over the west side of Vang Vieng with the Pha Deang Mountains looming in the background [HDR Composite]
[Hide Photo] A welcoming Sunrise causes the Crags and the Green Climber Valley to glow. Thakhek Laos.
[Hide Photo] If you have a day in the capital be sure to visit some of the museums, some of the Beta is strangely important to climbers such as mine's and unexploded ordinances.
[Hide Photo] One of the Many Walls located at Green climbers home, the climbing hotspot of Laos.
[Hide Photo] Welcome to the top of Chinese New Year, the most popular multi pitch in the country located above green climbers home.
[Hide Photo] This amazing wall is located at the confluence of the NamOu and Mekong Rivers. There are a handful of routes on Eagle wall to the left yet nothing going up the top of the main face.
[Hide Photo] Be sure to checkout a few of the temples in Vientiane.
Mazama, Washington
More information you can find here:
greenclimbershome.com
The latest guide book (from 2011) "Rock Climbing in Laos" you can buy at the Green Climbers Home or at every office of Green Discovery Laos.
Valdez, AK
Valdez, AK
On top there are 59 boulders in a range from FB 4+(V1) to FB 7b (V8) and some open projects as well.
Take a look at: greenclimbershome.com/Laos_…
You can rent climbing gear or crashpad at Green Climbers Home.
More information here: greenclimbershome.com