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Indian Cracks Bouldering
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Elevation: | 3,043 ft | 928 m |
GPS: |
37.2302, -122.09347 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 26,647 total · 149/month | |
Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Jan 10, 2010 · Updates | |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
With a handful of quality moderate boulder problems with great landings, this boulder is deservedly popular. There are a few harder routes (traverses, mainly) which I didn't have time to work on, but which may be worth checking out.
The obvious "splitter" crack on the front face of the boulder is called "Indian Crack", V0.
Routes from left to right, starting with Indian Crack, VO are
1) Indian Crack, V0
2) Easy Mantle, V0 (also on the front face)
3) Honey Dipper, V2 (first route on the right face)
4) 1 1/4" Crack, V1 (fifteen feet down from Honey Dipper)
There is also a V5 traverse starting at route 4 and finishing at route 1. I didn't try it but it looked cool. Reportedly there is a V7 traverse on the backside of the boulder, but it didn't look like much.
Descend from all problems via a 4th class chimney on the left side. Some has taken the liberty of tick-marking all the useful footholds for this descent, which to me seemed excessive, but to each his own I guess.
The obvious "splitter" crack on the front face of the boulder is called "Indian Crack", V0.
Routes from left to right, starting with Indian Crack, VO are
1) Indian Crack, V0
2) Easy Mantle, V0 (also on the front face)
3) Honey Dipper, V2 (first route on the right face)
4) 1 1/4" Crack, V1 (fifteen feet down from Honey Dipper)
There is also a V5 traverse starting at route 4 and finishing at route 1. I didn't try it but it looked cool. Reportedly there is a V7 traverse on the backside of the boulder, but it didn't look like much.
Descend from all problems via a 4th class chimney on the left side. Some has taken the liberty of tick-marking all the useful footholds for this descent, which to me seemed excessive, but to each his own I guess.
Getting There
Park as for Indian Rock. Go right of the obvious visible boulder and follow a faint trail (parallel to the access trail for Indian Rock, perpendicular to the road) for about 100 feet through the trees. You will soon be greeted by the obvious Indian Crack boulder and its eponymous V0 Indian Crack boulder problem.
Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Cracks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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