Lower Guadalupe Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.186, -121.872 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||6,095 total, 63/month|
|Shared By:||Nic Hoggan on Dec 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionGuadalupe Rock is possibly the most underrated crag in the Bay Area.
For example, the book Rock Climbing the San Fransisco Bay Area warns climbers to "steer clear of the unpleasant mud and flies at Guadalupe Rock and find a better place to climb." (pg 211)
I don't know what the author was pissed off about the day she visited the place, because the crag is downright pleasant. Granted, conditions around the rock change, as this crag sits next to/in the stream that feeds into Guadalupe Reservoir (or, when the reservoir is especially high, in the reservoir itself). But if you don't mind rock-hopping across the stream to start your route, this is a beautiful, secluded place that has several very fun routes and practically no approach. I have climbed here a good 15 times over the last 10 years, and I have never seen another person climbing here.
The rock is really a huge boulder (45-50ft)of moderate-to-good quality stone (I don't know what kind of rock it is). The rock holds about half a dozen established routes (that is, I have found some documentation for them) but could easily see some more development.
All routes can be easily toproped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambling up to the top (not sketchy at all). There are several solid bolts at the top, but they are somewhat spread out. I like to bring a 20ft piece of webbing for the anchors.
There is one route (the 10c I believe)that is well bolted and can be led. There are other bolts on other routes, but I don't fancy clipping rusted 1/4 inch button heads with homemade hangers. I see no reason why someone who wanted to shouldn't rebolt those lines and/or bolt new ones.
It should be noted that the ratings provided here come from the only place I could find them-- rockclimbing.com. They seem to be fairly accurate though.
To be fair, this place is no Castle Rock State Park. But the routes are fun, the area is beautiful, and there is some good potential for more routes here.
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details
Getting ThereGuadalupe Rock is located just south of Guadalupe Reservoir near the town of Los Gatos. To get their, take Hicks Road from where it begins on Camden Ave. (a couple miles south of the 85) for about ten minutes or so until you reach the reservoir. Continue alongside the reservoir, passing a trashy-looking, graffiti-covered crag on the right side of the road (this is Upper Guadalupe Rock and supposedly has some routes on it, but it has just never seemed worth stopping for). As you pass the reservoir (or maybe half a mile past it), keep an eye out for an enormous boulder sitting in the creek on the left-hand side of the road. The boulder sits about 50 feet down from the road, and the top of the boulder is about level with the road. There is a turnout another hundred yards or so down the road where you can park.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Guadalupe Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season