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Routes in Familia Manson

Familia Manson S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Description

This small cave is similar to the Ali Baba cave but is not so deep on the side to allow for long boulder problems leading into routes. The rock appears somewhat loose but is actually quite good, though there are a handful of holds glued to the wall on one of the routes.

The routes in here are pretty much straight up power endurance on angles from 45 degrees to horizontal. There is a lip traverse on the left side of the cave with progressively more difficult starts the further right you move 5.11-5.13c (depends which of the 3 stats you use and 3 finishes you end at). Next is a project with gold hangers that has its own finish. After that there are 2 routes on the middle right of the cave that share a finish that are both 5.13c.

Getting There

Once down in the canyon at Bikini. The easiest way to locate the wall is to cross the river and follow a trail down stream for a little ways untill you come to the cave. It is more or less across the river from the down stream end of Bikini. If you get to the Ali Baba cave (recogised by the deep tunnel like left side of the cave) you are too far down stream, head back towards the Gran Boveda.

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