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Routes in Hualapai Wall

Eagle's Nest Rappel Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagles Nest Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Butt Lovin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joy A. Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rusty Pipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 34.904, -113.908 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,144 total · 72/month
Shared By: Jed Alan on Dec 27, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Remote, 600+ft tall, gneissic, "desert alpine" formation with detatched pillars, in a rugged, dramatic setting. The place is intimidating, few have climbed here, but there are clean lines amidst all that choss. Definitely 6 quality multi-pitched routes (known) and more have been spotted.

It would be presumptuous to claim any first ascents because this place has been known and climbed occasionally for decades, though first ascents are entirely possible. A few routes are named and described here just to give some idea. If anyone is sure of a first ascent, and some earlier given names for routes, please speak. Bolts on some of the faces could produce some incredible routes but would require an immense effort.

The ratings here could very likely feel sandbagged. As these routes were posted by Granite Mountain climbers, the ratings could be in keeping with the system at The Mountain, and reflect the likely ratings that would have been given by the pioneers of the Hualapai Wall...the 'ol Syndicatico Granitica

The camping at Campsite #1 and Shanty Town is out of this world!

Getting There

See the cheaper way to fly guidebook.

Approach is 1.5 to 2hours, the bushwhacking is heinous, though a couple visits revealed a best way. It is temping, upon approaching the elevation of the foot of the wall to make a B-line directly to it but it is wiser to stay wide to the west and then south and circle back into it where the brush is less tall and dense.

6 Total Climbs

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if you have a truck you can drive all the way up to the mine and begin the approach there. Feb 9, 2010
meghan c.
el paso, tx
meghan c.   el paso, tx
Thanks for the info Paul and Rusty. Did you begin the approach from the old Boriana Mine or dive up the 4WD BLM road? Jan 26, 2010
yes this is the same Hualupai Wall above the old mine. I have read that it is a gneissic formation, but it does feel like quartzite in places. I'm not a geologist, but maybe there's some of both present... if that is possible. It seems that way because in places it seems about as good as high quality quartzite can be, and in other places it seems very chossy and dangerous.

I would like to see that old topo.

I have talked to David Lovejoy about it, and others in my crew are close with Rusty Ballie, and neither of them had a whole lot to offer. David said he had been there once and had a vague recollection of the experience, but the little bit he did remember was helpful. Perhaps Scott Baxter knows more,but I don't know how to get ahold of him. Jan 1, 2010
This is the same Hualapi Wall up above the old mine right ?
I thought this was a type of Quartzite rock? Certainly felt like that to me.

One very cool area, the guy to talk to is Scott Baxter.
The Syndicatico Granitica put up many routes here in the '70s.
So I imagine Rusty Bailie and David Lovejoy would also have some info.
It seems to me that there used to be a small hand drawn topo floating around. If I ever find it, I'll post it up.

The approach is a bit rough as I recall. Some of the tallest manzanitas I've thrashed through. I've heard a number of stories of climbers running into rattlers down in the manzanita thickets but personally never saw one.

More pics... Dec 29, 2009

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