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Areas in Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)

Journeyman Crag, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
West side of Greeley northern pond 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Elevation: 2,808 ft
GPS: 44.023, -71.492 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,846 total, 50/month
Shared By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Northwest ridge facing eastward has various ice climbs and is dependent on winter conditions to how thick the ice is. Lean snow years mean thickest ice here apparently.
Furthest south is one long pitch, dike. I had only heard of it but did find it and climbed it one summer. I called it 'Dear Ticks and Black Flies'. The dike was originally climbed in the late 1970's by the Rumney ice climbing locals. Today it is famously known as the 'Drool of the Beast', (WI5-). Way back then in the 1980's it was known as the Miniature (mini) Black Dike. N.E. Climbs has a decent photo of it and so does
There is a very long wide cascade coming down from nearly the Summit of East Osceola trail(where the trail veers right and heads up steeply, the cascade stream bed is to the left. This stream bed is all ice when conditions are right (WI3) otherwise a long snow slog with a few ice bulges and a great view at the top. Much was no rope soloed by me in the early 1980's but not the dike. I had only one friend that climbed here with me. That was Tom Bowker. We did a plastic glass pitch somewhere in the middle of these ledges with no protection beyond one very small tree on it. Afterward there was a snow field to grade two bulges that we climbed no rope soloing. This year 2012 the conditions of the west facing ice wall that I can see have new lines to climb. It's February though and the conditions could change to being poorly climbable before March.
I invite you to take it all in. Greeley Pond is close to only the east facing wall. This wall has at least two climbs on it.

Getting There

Hike on Greeley Ponds trail towards the ponds from the Kancamagus Highway. Before the ponds are reached keep looking up southwestward to see the ridge through the trees. In about 2 miles you'll reach the climbs.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)

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bradley white   Bend
Thanks for the improvement Mark and the area doesn't need south of north greeley pond. The cascade is on the west side. I'm going to have too get some decent photos. Dec 15, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Bradley, I think I got the sub areas re-ordered correctly and the routes in the correct section. Could you check for me and let me know if anything still needs to be moved? I'll leave it to you to edit the area descriptions since some of the sentences are no longer pertinent, and arrange the routes left to right when you get the chance. Thanks Oct 29, 2012

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