Raco de les Tenebres Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.276, 0.766 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009|
DescriptionFinestra's sister-cliff is known for a long, overhanging prow of brilliant orange stone that features four of Margalef's best jug hauls, inluding the area's best 7c, Magic Festival, and one of its best 8a's, Sativa Patatica. But that is not all Tenebres has to offer, featuring a compact cliff of classic vertical routes on the left, and a dramatic, 200-foot wide, 40-foot deep horizontal roof on the right.
The twenty or so routes here range in difficulty from 5.10 to 5.14c (and a few open projects), with an emphasis on the 5.11s & 12s. Technicians will want to try Meteora, 5.11c, one of Margalef's best 5.11s, and Chupa Sangra, 5.12d, an intricate pocketed line of tufa flowstone. Burlmasters will marvel at the astonishing roof lines, including the impressive "402", 5.13d, which Chris Sharma on-sighted.
The cliff faces Northeast, but thanks to dense vegetation the "Corner of Darkness" is shaded more or less all day. The massive roof provides some shelter, but most of the topouts will get wet in the rain.
Getting ThereFrom Margalef, follow the bridge East across the river towards the "Fonda Tres Pines" Hotel. Heads up for the tree that is literally in the middle of the road! Veer left after the tree, heading up a steep paved road signed for "Ermita Sant Salvador". Continue winding up this road, passing several crags on either side of the canyon. After ~1.8 KM, park at a fork in the road in any of the small pullouts. It looks like there might be a new parking lot going in here.
Follow a steep trail on the right (South) side of the road. Switchback up for ~3 minutes to arrive below a big orange, chossy wall with a gray slab above. Head right thru dense brush, then scramble up a steep cleft/chimney, then follow the trail left around the short buttress, continuing South through more scrub brush to an open area and a view of the impressive cliff. The reach the vertical routes on the left end of the wal, turn left, back into the brush, and follow the trail for ~100yds, crossing a gully, to reach the cliff. For all other routes, scramble down from the viewpoint with the aid of a knotted rope to reach the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Raco de les Tenebres
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season