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Routes in Can Verdures

Bitx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Carn d'olla S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El dia de la bestia S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Estilson T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lobo Lopez S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Qu'estic aci!! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Samson S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Verdures atomiques S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

This small cliff has a surprisingly large number of routes. With a Northeast-facing aspect, its also a great hang on a hot day. Although the twenty or so routes here range in difficulty from 5.10+ to 5.13a, the crag really shines in the 5.11-range, offering a number of popular, high quality lines, particularly on the left end of the cliff. This crag tends to be rather popular, perhaps because many of the moderates are relatively steep for their grades. The right half of the cliff is distinguished by a severely undercut base, that has resulted in a few burly, bouldery routes that finish with realtively easy slabs.

This cliff is ~60 feet high and nearly vertical. The base of the crag offers only a narrow flatish ledge before sloping down steeply into the woods, making the crag scene rather cramped. If you're into bolted cracks, this crag has a couple decent ones in addition to the steep slabs. A big horizontal break runs across the left half of the cliff, offering no-hands rests midway up most of those routes. Many of the left-half routes are also squeezed pretty close, so keep that in mind before heading up on a busy day.

Getting There

Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road down the hill a short ways to some small cobblestone towers & park at a lot on the right near a creek. Follow a good wooden bridge across the creek then turn left on the old dirt road on the other side. Follow the road for ~100 yds. Follow the second cairned trail up the steep hillside for ~2 minutes to reach the right end of the cliff.

8 Total Climbs

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